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The 

Carpet Workroom 



A GUIDE FOR 

Measuring, Cutting and Laying 

With numerous diagrams of work actually performed, and 
with which is incorporated a dictionary descrip- 
tive of all floor coverings and the processes, 
employed in their manufacture, with, 
other useful information for 
the novice and expert. 



Copyright, 1910; by 
REVIEW PUBLISHING COMPANY 

31 East 17th Street, New York 



PUBLISHERS OF 

y Carpet Tr:sdb-Rt:view 

^^ Upholstery Trade Review \ ;'" 
Furniture Trade Review 
History of Floor Coverings 
Oriental Rugs and Carpets 
Upholstery and Drapery Guide 

Fundamental Principles of Decoration 

Established 1870 






^' 



(X" 



lt)-\n'^^^ 



€GU 2S87He? 



PREFACE. 




T is intended that in this treatise upon carpet meas- 
uring and laying the rudiments and Hkewise the 
most advanced principles and practice of the 
trade shall be set forth so clearly that any novice 
in the carpet workroom will have no difficulty in 
comprehending and applying them, whether the 
job to be undertaken is the simplest possible or the most com- 
plex and difficult. 

All of the work described and illustrated in these pages 
represents jobs actually performed by experts connected with 
large carpet houses of the most up-to-date class, in which no 
bungling or careless methods are tolerated. The novice who 
studies carefully these descriptions and illustrations of what 
may be called typical jobs in his trade can therefore feel as- 
^sured that he will have nothing to unlearn in after years. 

The book is not intended for carpet upholsterers only. It 
contains also a dictionary of carpets and other floor coverings, 
comprising descriptions of all fabrics used on floors, likewise 
explanations of processes and terms employed in carpet manu- 
facture, and a very considerable amount of other information 
of practical interest and importance to all handlers of floor 
coverings. In these days of sharp competition, involving close 
estimates and small profits, every carpet dealer and salesman 
needs to be well informed in all essential details of .his business 
from the mill, through the store and workroom to the floor on 
which the goods he sells are laid, and it is just such practical 
information which this book supplies in concise, convenient 
form. 



# 



PART I. 



Carpet Measuring, Cutting and Laying. 




Measuring a Saloon Parlor. 

HE diagram No. i, which is presented on page 5, 
has been prepared for the special purpose of illus- 
trating all the principal difficulties in correct 
measuring, cutting and laying which arise from 
peculiarities in the shape of a room. 

The diagram represents a saloon parlor. 
The letter A indicates a door between the parlor and the hall. 
B is an ogee curve, caused by the hall being narrower at the 
entrance-door than it is a few feet farther back. C is an 
angular bay-window and D is a semicircular one. In the case 
of D the measurer ascertains the radius of the circle and marks 
the figures on the diagram as in this instance, in which the 
radius, indicated by the dotted lines, is seen to be 3 feet 3^ 
inches. When the window will not form a part of a perfect 
circle, as is the case at C, the measurer "squares off" the space 
in the manner shown in the diagram. 

D^ and D- are windows of the ordinary kind. 

E is a quarter circle which is measured as D is, excepting 
that the dimensions are taken from the outside instead of the 
inside of the circle. 

F is a triangular bay-window. In measuring this "squar- 
ing" is again resorted to, as shown by the dotted lines, which 
represent a space of 2 feet 6 inches in one direction and 2 feet 
10 inches in the other. 

G indicates a portion of an ellipse, in wiiich the procesi 
of "squaring" is again utilized, and the part of a triangle, H. 
is treated in the same manner. 

Tlie measurer now begins to apply his tape line at the 
front of the apartment. He first measures the total breadth 
there, which is just 18 feet. The next measure taken is from 



Page Three 



Ite 



the left-hand corner of the front of the room to the point 
where the bay-window C begins ; this proves to be 3 feet and 
is put down on the diagram ; then the entire width from the 
baseboard on the right-hand side to the window, 7 feet 2 
inches, is next ascertained and placed on the diagram. The 
sums of the last two measurements with the width of the bay- 
window show a total of 18 feet, which proves that the figures 
are correct. The next measurement is from the point I to 
the beginning of the ogee curve, which is 2 feet. The curve 
itself is divided, as shown by the dotted lines in the diagram. 
In this instance one of these spaces measures but 4 inches 
in one way, while the other five measure 6 inches each in the 
same direction. Then, measuring from the line of the base- 
board to the angle formed by the dotted lines, the distance is 
found to be 4 feet 10 inches. The depth measuring the dotted 
line from x to x is 10^ inches. Six inches farther along an- 
other measurement is taken and proves to be 11 inches. The 
same process is repeated at the points indicated by the short dot- 
ted lines, and all the measurements so obtained are duly trans- 
ferred to the diagram. The distance from the ogGQ to the 
door, 2 feet 6 inches, the width of the door, 5 feet, and the 
distance from the door to the point H are all marked down 
separately on the plan. The angle at H being squared is seen 
to be 7 inches deep and i foot 2 inches long. The ellipse G 
is marked ofif in the same manner as the ogee curve, excepting 
that, being larger than the latter, the spaces between the lines 
are made wider. 

• The next measurement is from the point M of the base- 
board to the beginning of the bay-window F, 2 feet 2 inches. 
Then the width of the window is taken, 5 feet. The measure- 
ments inside the window require no explanation. Windows of 
this size are usually filled in with plain carpet or filling. In 
measuring for the quarter circle E it is found that a right 
angle can be struck by running two short dotted lines back 
a distance of i foot 4 inches each, and these figures, to- 
gether with the distance from the angle to the centre of the 
quarter circle, are noted. The measurements on the left- 
hand or straight side of the room require no special ex- 
planation. The measures of the entire lengths of the sides of 



Page Four 






/VfOr/T. 




DIAGRAM 1, MEASURING A PARLOR. 



Page iMve 



Page Six 



a room and widths of the ends must be compared with the 
sums of the short measures taken, as was explained in refer- 
ring to the measurements of the front of the parlor. In meas- 
uring a square room in wdiich the two sides are of the same 
length and the two ends are of equal width, it is not necessary 
to take the diagonal measures shown in the diagram. Their 
purpose is to establish to a certainty the exact conformation 
of an irregularly shaped apartment. Thus the line running 
from J to M is used to "prove" the triangle formed by the 
points J, I and M. The line from J to N "proves" the triangle 
made by J, I and N. The line from J to H "proves" the angle 
formed by J, H and I, and so on. These diagonal measures 
must be taken exact and with special care. 

Cutting the Carpet. 

After the measurements have all been placed in the dia- 
gram, the next operation in order is for the cutter to reproduce 
the plan by chalk marks on the floor of the cutting-room, 
making this second diagram correspond exactly in size with 
the measurements given in the first one. 

Generally two tape lines are employed in laying out the 
plan of an irregular room of this description. After carefully 
looking over the plan and seeing that the figures tally, the 
cutter uses his judgment as to the point of commencement. 
He may begin at the point marked J and strike out on the 
floor a straight line running to I, a distance of 18.0, taking 
the measurement for the window C (7.10) as he proceeds. 
Leaving the awl in the tape measure at point J, he continues 
along the bevel side of the room with another tape line, plac- 
ing the awl at I, to measure the ogee curve 4.10. Then taking 
the tape line left at J he runs it across to the point of the ogee 
curve, a distance of 16.9. The intersection of these two meas- 
ures establishes that point. Then point H, 14.10 from I, is 
intersected by a measure from J 18.2. The short measures 
along the line can then be filled in. Then shift the awl from 
I to H, placing it 7 inches in at that angle, and mark off 
points 1.2 intersected by 18.1 and 1.8 intersected by iS.ii'jA 
at N. Then shift the awl from H to N, and measure the line 



^ 






6.^ intersected by 24.1^ at ]\I and establish the triangle at 
the intersection of 6.9 and 2.2. Then fill in the offsets as 
shown in the plan at G. Strike out the rear end at F and E 
and continue along the straight side to the point of commence- 
ment J. If two tape lines are not at hand one will answer the 
purpose with a little more careful management. The next 
stage in the operations is to lay the border on the floor along 
the chalk lines which indicate the baseboard of the room to 
be carpeted. If it is a square one there will^ of course, be 
only four mitrings required. In an apartment like that rep- 
resented in the diagram more mitring is necessary, and sound 
judgment niust be used as to how the room shall be bordered 
and what parts filled in with the body of the carpet. 

The amount of mitring essential depends greatly upon the 
width of the border. A narrow one requires more than a 
wide border. AMien the border has been fitted in its place 
on the floor the carpet is taken in hand. In arranging it 
inside the border, care is observed to avoid unnecessary waste 
of material in matching the breadths, and such odd pieces as 
may happen to be made in the matching process are utilized 
as much as possible for filling in around windows, etc. 

When the cutter's labors have been finished the carpet 
completely covers the diagram on the floor. The border is then 
basted to the carpet at intervals of a foot ; its breadths are 
fastened together in the same way or the breadths are marked 
on the back with chalk on both selvage edges where they con- 
nect, as for example : First breadth marked 1.2 ; second breadth, 
2.3 ; third breadth, 3.4, and so on. The border is marked at 
the mitres where they connect as A-A, R-B, C-C, etc.. and a 
thread is sewn on the border at the exact point where each 
seam comes. 

The carpet is then carried to the sewing room where the 
sewers complete the work of the basters or tackers. 

The carpet, being now properly measured, cut and sewn, 
has passed the most critical stages in its career — from the 
dealer's point of view — although a careless or incompetent 
layer may mar all the good work that has preceded his own. 
But the carpet layer who makes such w(^rk his vocation is 
generally equal to its demands, and, indeed, often deserves 



Pace Seven 



« 



credit for a skillful arrangement 1)\' which a mistake of the 
measurer or cutter is remedied. 

Diagram No. 2 shows the quantity of carpet required 
for covering this room and also how the ^ border and vari- 
ous breadths are cut and laid. 

In laying a ^ border on this room, start at the corner J 
and continue around the window C to point I, follow the line 
of the ogee curve at B, continue straight across the entrance- 
door to point H, follow the line of the angle at H to N and 
around the curve N G M, then straight across to E, then up 
to and around the circular window D to the point of commence- 
ment J, as shown on the diagram. The cutter will use his 
judgment in arranging the mitres to best advantage. This 
job requires 35 yards of S/g border. The body of the carpet 
(without any matching of figure), commencing on the straight 
side of the room E to J, will cut as follows : 

1st breadth 18.6 

2nd 

3rd 

4th 



5th 

6th 

7th 

8th 

9th 
loth 
nth 
1 2th 
Entrance-door, 



22.3 
22.3 
21 .0 



10. o 

5-0 



waste from 9th breadth 



3-0 
3-0 
4.6 
4.6 



Window D 



-Window F 



123.0 feet, or 41 yards. 
The waste from the entrance-door breadth, window F and 
breadth 4 will fill in the window recesses of D, D^ and D^. 



Page Eight 






>i&. 




DIAGRAM 2, SHOWING THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE BREADTHS 

AND BORDER. 



I'agc Nine 




Front and Back Parlors, Main Halt and Extension, 

lAGRAM No. 3 represents the front and back parlors, 
main hall and extension of an ordinary city 
house. To measure for three-quarter carpet, 
after first drawing a plan of the rooms and hall, 
measure the entire length in feet, inches and 
fractions of inches on both sides, and take the 
width at the ends. 

Locate the jogs, and take the measurement on the fire- 
place side of the room, and the sum of these measurements 
plus the width of the casing of the sliding-door will verify the 
measurement of the entire length of rooms. 

Measure from the rod of the sliding-door to the front and 
rear baseboards respectively. 

Fix the positions, and measure the width and depth of the 
windows. 

Measure the baseboard and molding of the casing of the 
sliding-door, beginning at the baseboard of the straight side. 
Measure the width of the sliding-door. 

Measure the baseboard and molding of the casing of the 
sliding-door, beginning at the baseboard on the fireplace side, 
and the sum of this measurement and measurements of the 
baseboard, and molding of the casing of the sliding-door (be- 
ginning at the baseboard of the straight side), and the width 
of the sliding-door, will show the entire width of the room. 

The hall is measured on the same general principle for a 
carpet ; but for oil cloth or linoleum the measurement of the 
width should be taken to the extreme edge of the nosing inside 
of the banister — 3 ft. 3 in. 

The measurement of the extension or small room requires 
no special explanation. 

The rooms and hall represented by the plan would require 
the following quantities of carpeting and border, no allowance 
being made for waste in matching : For parlors, 38 5-6 yds. of 
y^ border; for parlors, 67]^ yds. of ^ carpet; for hall, 17^ 
yds. of 9 in. border; for hall, 14 yds. of ^ carpet; for exten- 
sion, 13 yds. of 9 in. border; for extension, 9 yds. of }^ carpet. 

The border is run the square of the room. Take the 



Page Ten 




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DIAGRAM 3, FRONT AND SACK PARLORS. MAIN HALL 
AND EXTENSION. 



Page Eleveih 



Ft. 


In. 


42 


9 


42 


9 


14 


6 


14 


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114 


6 



length of the front parlor, 21.41^, and the length of the back 
parlor, 2i.4>^, which, doubled, makes 42.9, and the other side, 
of course, makes the same amount. Then there 
is a strip across the front parlor of the width 
of 14.6, and a strip of the same width on the 
back parlor, which doubled makes 29.0. 

The border should always run on the 
straight side of the room, and be turned under 
38 1-6 at the sliding-doors, when these run into the 

partition. A border and mitre should never be turned around 
the sliding-doors of a parlor, not even if it is a 9 inch border. 
After the border is run around the square breadth of the rooms, 
the carpet is filled in from border to border and then cut at the 
sliding-doors, so that the breadths of carpet for the two parlors 
will match each other where they come together at the sliding- 
doors. 



A Guest Chamber. 

o measure the guest chamber represented in dia- 
gram No. 4, first measure from A to B, then 
from B to C, next from C to D, and then from 
E to F. Find the radius of the circle, mark the 
point G on the floor and tie this by a direct 
straight line to H, this being a very important 
measure. Then measure from F to I, from I to J, from J to K, 
and take the depth of the fireplace and hearth. Next measure 
from K to L and take the depth of the wall recess. Measure 
from L to M, M to N, K to O, O to P, P to A, B to N, and C to 
M. Take also the measures of the partition D to O. 




Page Twelve 






'iM 4, A GUEST CHAMBER. 



Page Thirteen 




A Hall of Unusual Shape. 



THE hall shown in the diagram Xo. 5 was situated 
on the second floor of an old-fashioned dwelling 
house. In this case the most interesting fea- 
ture of the work was the cutting of the carpet, 

w^iich was done as follow^s : 

With the measurer's diagram before him, the 
cutter marked on the floor of the carpet workroom a duplicate 
plan of the exact dimensions required for the carpet. 

In marking out this enlarged plan he first made, with the 
chalk and line, a straight line running from a to b. The fig- 
ures which appear in the diagram here indicate the small meas- 
urements taken from the various corners or angles of the hall, 
in the plan, and proved by adding together the various small 
measurements taken along it. The cutter then got the angle for 
the line which runs from b to c by measuring from b to the 
straight line from c to d, which is according to the measurement 
point e, exactly under the point c, and then measuring to this 
point c. These measurements are indicated in the diagram by 
dotted lines. Having reached the point c, the cutter drew the 
straight line from c to d, which, according to the measurement 
given in the plan, was made i foot 1034 inches in length. 
The angle from d to f was then obtained by carrying a dotted 
line from d out to the point g, that is, to a point directly under 
the point /. A dotted line was then run up to /, a straight line, 

1 foot 7 inches in length, was drawn from / to B, and it then 
became necessary to square the angle between B and D, and 
next to find the distance from the angle D to the point E, which 
was 5 feet 9 inches, the widest part of the hall being along the 
line U to V, which, as drawn, is 2 feet 10^ inches from the 
point E, and the same distance from D. In order to get the 
proper curves for the space between E and D the cutter meas- 
ured every 5 inches, as shown by the figures on the diagram. 
As the point D was not on a line with E, it was necessary to 
square the angle again, as shown by the dotted lines, measuring 

2 feet ioj/2 inches by 2 feet 6^ inches. The next line laid out 
was that running from E to F. From that point to the point a 



Page Fourteen 




DIAGRAM 5, A HALL OF UNUSUAL SHAPE. 



Page Fifteen 



the cutter proceeded in precisely the same manner as on the 
opposite side. 

With his hnes laid down as shown in the diagram, the 
cutter's next step was to prove the correctness of his work as 
compared with the plan by making the cross measurements in- 
dicated by the arrows, as for instance, from F to D, B and W, 
and from E to G, H and S. 

Having the plan properly drawn out on the floor the cutter 
then began the cutting of the carpet. Starting with the border 
from the point A, he ran it in a straight line to B, making a 
mitre there and another at D, and then brought the border 
along the large curve from D to E by cutting half or quarter 
mitres every 5 or 6 inches and folding under the superfluous 
material. The border was not cut entirely across, a portion 
of the outer edge along the entire curve being left uncut. At 
E another mitre was made, and the border was then run along 
the straight line from E to F. The curve from F to G was then 
fitted as on the opposite side. Mitres were made at G and H, 
and the border then run from the latter point straight to I, and 
thence to the point A. The spaces C were next filled by 
placing one breadth of carpet from M to L. This space being 
but I foot 5 inches in width there was enough material left 
from the breadth of carpet to fill in also the triangular spaces at 
a and b. Next a full breadth was run from the dotted line 
opposite D to P, and another breadth was run from R to Y. 
One more width running from the dotted line opposite G to T 
left uncovered only a space on the right side 4^ inches in 
width at the widest part and tapering at each end to a point. 
This was covered by using the waste of the middle width, and 
the job was then completed. 




A Front Chamber. 

HE method of measuring a front chamber as shown 
in diagram No. 6 will be found interesting 
and suggestive, as the peculiar shape of the room 
presented several technical difficulties to the 
measurer. 



Pasre Sixteen 




DIAGRAM 6. A FRONT CHAMBER. 



Page Seventeen 




Main Saloon of a Steamship. 

N measuring this saloon, first mark the centre Hne 
with chalk where you can get the full width of 
the floor. Usually a joint at the centre of the 
floor board forms the centre of the boat and is 
continued its full length. But this should not be 
" taken for granted, the centre line being always 
measured or marked on the floor where possible. Continue 
measuring from the bow of the boat on the centre line 13.6^ 
which is opposite the point of the bow curve. Measure straight 
across and show the distances on both sides of the centre line 
and mark the position at each extreme end. Then measure 
from the centre line from the bow to the position measured at 
the cross line 13.2^ on either side. Measure the offsets at 
right angles from the 18.9 line at the intervals best suited 
for the purpose. Then measure on the centre line again 3.9 
to the obstruction in the centre of the boat. Measure the curve 
corners at both ends, see that the measures are true and mark 
the points on the floor, then get the straight measures on one 
side of the obstruction. Sometimes this space is filled with 
chairs and the full width of the passage cannot be taken 
all the way across. In this case form a straight line toward 
the outside at a certain distance from the obstruction at both 
ends (in this case 6.0), and from the new line take the offsets 
at specified intervals. Repeat this for the opposite side, then 
measure the centre again to the next obstruction as shown on 
the diagram and so on to the stern^ showing all obstructions 
on the plan and giving all the measurements. The stern curve 
has to be measured differently from the bow, as shown on the 
diagram, in order to avoid the obstructions. Locate all the 
stanchions, masts, etc. Add all the centre measures together, 
which give a measure of 108.2, this being the entire length of 
the saloon. 



Page Eighteen 



.»!>)& 



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Pnire Nineteen 



First Floor of an American Basement House, 

T" HE diagram No. 8, drawn for this floor, shows the 
position of the stairs in connection with the main 
hall, but as the upper part of the stairs ex- 
tends over the line of the rear part of the main 

hall it would be preferable to plan the stairs on 

a separate sheet and show only the floor line of 
the stairs on the main hall plan. 

In measuring, start from A to B, B to C, C to D, D to E, 
E to F, F to G, G to H, H to A. Take hearth measures, curve 
measures and all short measures carefully and check them by 
one long measure. Make a note on the plan of the descrip- 
tion of flooring, the material of which the hearth is constructed, 
the location of elevator, toilet rooms, windows, etc. Then 
measure the coat room. In this plan the door forms part of 
the curve and is fitted on the hall side with a mirror. Usually 
rugs are put on this floor, but the measures given will answer 
for any covering. 

In measuring the stairs, show the lower curve of the riser 
accurately. Give the width of each step as shown on the plan 
at "the foot of each riser, then give the depth of each tread on 
the wall side. Note the length of the risers and measure down 
over the tread and risers to the wall side for a check measure 
net. 

Note the material of which the stairs are built. These 
measures will answer to cover the stairs entirely, for a strip 
and for pads and invisible stair rods. 



Page Twenty 





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DIAGRAM 8, AMERICAN B^^M£NT HOUSE. FIRST FLOOR. 



* 



I'age Twenty-one 




Second Floor of an American Basement House. 

FTER drawing the diagram No. 9, as shown here, 
measure first the drawing room. Place your awl 
at point A and measure to B, marking off at 
stated, intervals the spaces which in your estima- 
tion are most suitable to show the curves for the 
offsets. Then take all the measurements of the 
offsets^ then measure from B to C by bringing in the tape line 
3.0 from the base and running it in front of the hearth. All 
these measures can be taken as you proceed. Then measure 
from C to D, showing the depth of the door up to the slide, 
then from D to A, and around the swell front to B, showing 
the width and depth of the windows. Proceed in the same way 
with the stair hall and elevator hall, measuring from E to F, 
F to G, G to H, H to E, I to J, j to K, K to L, and L to I, 
giving all the short measurements ; then measure the dining 
room from AI to N, N to O, O to P, P to M. Take all the 
short measurements and see that they tally with the long ones. 
Note the kind of flooring. Usually in this kind of a house the 
second floor is parquetry, with or without border. If there is 
a border, mark how it runs on the plan, using for this a blue 
pencil, "^hen measure the breadth of the border from the 
bases and put that on the plan, also in blue pencil. In most 
cases rugs are used on parquetry floors, but if the measures are 
taken as shown on this plan, they will answer either for rug? 
or to cover the floors entirely, with or without borders. 



Page Twenty-two 



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DIAGRAM 9, AMERICAN BASEMEN 



ISE, SECOND FLOOR. 

Page Twenty-three 



'l.r 







A Peculiarly Shaped Hall. 

o measure the hall shown in the diagram No. lo, 
the first thing necessary after having made an 
accurate plan of the hall is to draw a line from 
A to B through the centre of the hall. All the 
measurements in width are taken from the centre 
line to either side. The measures of the front 
or oval part of the hall are taken from the centre line at every 
foot from A to C. Then the lengths are taken from A to C, 
C to I, I to D, D to J, and from J to B, which will give the 
total length. The next step is to measure from the point D on 
the centre line to the corners E, F, G and H ; then from the 
centre line to E and H, which will give the entire width of 
the hall ; then measure the width at C, I, D and J, and from 
E to F and G to H, locating the doors and also giving the 
depths of the doors. The measure for the circular sliding- 
door is obtained by the same process of measuring as that used 
for the oval part of the hall. Measure from the centre line 
to the door at every foot from J, and take the measurement at 
O and R. The other ofifsets and doors are then measured 
separately. It is well to measure the total length and width 
also, as this will prove the shorter measurements taken. At 
the front door the measure is taken from the centre line to T 
and V, and from S to T, and from W to V, and from S to W. 
The small offsets at each side are measured separately. 



Page Twenty-four 



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^^^•FnoNT Idoor 2>cr-^ 4 




DOKTOBACKH'^L' 
niAGRAM 10, A PECULIARLY SHAPED r, 



Page Twenty-five 



& 



A Church. 



TAKE a diagram of the entire church, as in Fig. ii, 
then measure the chancel completely to the foot 
of the lower riser, then the space for the chor- 
isters, including also the pulpit, reading desk and 
steps ; then the choir room, next the body of the 
church, locating the position of all aisles and al- 
coves, and finally the inside measurement of the pews. Note 
on the plan what spaces are marble or tile or any other sub- 
stances than wood, and wdiether the pews are raised above the 
floor level or not, and if they are raised, how much ; also if 
the riser is hardwood finish or otherwise ; also if the aisles or 
any of the spaces are to have strips only or are to be covered 
entirely with carpet. Also note whether the choristers' seats 
are screwed down over the carpet or not. 

In dealing with this subject of church measurement, a 
diagram of a typical Episcopal church is presented, because it 
covers all the points involved in the measurement of any other 
church. The plan of a Roman Catholic church would be prac- 
tically the same, such differences as might exist being unim- 
portant so far as the carpet measurer is concerned, while the 
plan of the ordinary Protestant church (Alethodist, Presby- 
terian, etc.) is so much simpler that it can present no difficul- 
ties whatever to the careful observer of this diagram. 



Page Twenty-six 



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DIAGRAM 11, A CHURCH, 



PaL'i Twenty-seven 





A Theatre. 

FTER having drawn the diagram shown in Fig. 12, 
measure each space separately. Start on the 
foyer and complete the section, marking the long 
measures and seeing that the total of the short 
measures agrees with the long ones. Take the 
offset at the circles and show the location of all 
aisles at that end, leaving distinct chalk marks on the floor for 
the connecting measures. Then measure one side of the prom- 
enade, next the boxes on that side, then the steps down and 
each aisle completely as you proceed. Then measure the op- 
posite promenade and boxes. Note on the plan what spaces 
are to have runners or strips and what are to be covered en- 
tirely with carpet ; also note what parts, if any, are marble or 
cement floors. Note, in a word, any matter to which special 
attention should be drawn for the cutter or layer. 



Page Twenty-eight 



J x^^ifc^mtfr-i 




DIAGRAM 12, A THEATRE. 



Page Twenty-nine 




Front and Back Parlors. 

o measure these rooms, after having first drawn the 
diagram 13 as proportionately as possible, and 
marking the front of the house "front," the win- 
dows "w," the doors ''d," and the hearths, tile 
marble, brick cement, etc., as they may be, 
start at point A, measuring to B, taking the 
measures 8.8, 3.4, 4.0^ and 2.10; then from point C to D, 
taking the measure 34.1^, giving all the short measures and 
squaring the angles. Then measure from E to F, marking the 
short measures and the depth of the door. Then measure 
from F to A, showing all the short measures on that side of the 
room, also the length and depth of the hearth, doors, etc. Thea 
measure from I to J, from K to L, M to N, and O to P. Of 
course see that the total of the short measures agrees with 
the long ones. 



Page Thirty 



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DIAGRAM 13. FRONT AND BACK PARLORS. 



I'ngc Tliirty-one 



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Part of the Second Floor of a Seashore House. 




N the part of a second floor of a seashore house, 
shown in diagram No. 14, there is represented 
a room with irregular angles. Draw the dia- 
gram as near as possible to the shape of the 
rooms and measure the rectangular chamber first. 
Next measure the dressing room, then the angu- 
lar chamber, starting at the partition wall and including the 
closet measures. Square the angles as you proceed on that 
line, then place the awl at point A and take off the measures 
15.95^, 19.2, 22.0 — 20.2, 10.6, 10.3 and 6.6. Then place the 
awl at point B and take off the measures 8.11^, 13.5 and ii.i. 
All the measures must be taken very closelv and accurately. 



Page Thirty-two 




Dl 



AGRAM 14, PART OF THE SECON -OOR O 



F A SEASHORE HOUSE. 
Page Tliirt\ tliree 



J^ 



winding Stairs, 




N measuring the winding stairs shown in diagram 
No. 15, measure each tread separately, taking 
the width just under the riser, and the other 
measurements as shown on the diagram. To 
prove the total length, run the tape measure from 
top to bottom over the treads and risers and close 
to the wall side. By marking the figures in this manner they 
answer all purposes, whether the stairs are to be covered en- 
tirely or to have only a strip, and they also provide for the 
use of the invisible stair rods or pads. Always make a note if 
the stairs are constructed of any other material than \vood, 
such as marble, cement or iron. 



Page Tliirty-foui 




DIAGRAM 15, WIND.llSG STAIRS. 



I'age Tliirty-five 



First Floor of a Suburban House. 

N measuring the floor shown in diagram 16, begin 
to measure from the front to the back, com- 
pleting each room as you proceed. Square all 
angles and give the measure of all window re- 
cesses and closets, width and depth of hearths, 
etc., and give names to these spaces on the plan, 
such as ''tiled hearth," ''range," "closet," "sink," "dresser, ' etc., 
so that no matter whether the carpet is bordered or not the 
cutter can determine where to stop the border or to do any 
piecing or filling in, or the oil cloth cutter can designate the 
best place to make cross joinings. 




Page Thirty-six 



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DIAGRAM 16, FiRS 



ST FLOOR OF A JB'JRBAN HOUSE. 



Page Tliirty-seven 



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An Oval Room, 

o measure for this room, first form, as in diagram 
17, a rectangle from the centre hne, locating each 
corner on the floor. Measure from A to B, B to 
C, C to D, A to D. Take the right angle of ''off" 
measures as you proceed 2.0 apart, or as near as 
the space requires at any projections of the line, 

such as hearths, etc. The diagram is really sufficient in itself 

without any explanation. 



Page Thirty-eight 



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DIAGRAM r/, AN OVAL ROOM. 



I'age Tliirtynine 



Points in Measuring and Laying. 




Measuring. 

N most carpet plans the front of the house is at 
the top of the di2gram, but some measurers place 
it at the bottom. The important point to remem- 
ber is that all the measurers for each house 
should agree in this matter, the front being al- 
ways at the top or always at the bottom of all 
the diagrams. 

In making estimates before the carpet has been selected, 
calculate the yards net and then allow from a foot to a half- 
yard for each breadth. When the carpet has been chosen and 
the pattern is therefore known, that will be taken into consid- 
eration in making the estimate. 

In measuring stairs mark on the plan the number of steps, 
and if they vary in width note the variations. 

A rule is useful in place of a tape line when it is neces- 
sary to measure under furniture or in any places where a tape 
line cannot be used. 

When the carpet is to have a border take the measure- 
ments as close as one-eighth of an inch. 

, Always begin at the straight side in measuring across a 
room. 

Laying. 
HEN a front room and a rear one are connected, by 
sliding or folding doors, the breadths of carpet 
in both rooms should run with the figure to- 
ward the front, if the carpet is of the same pat- 
tern in both rooms, but if the pattern in one 
room differs from that in the other, each room 
should be treated independently, which means that the breadths 
in each room should run toward the windows in that particular 
room . 



m 



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Page Forty 



In laying large carpets without a border, begin at the 
back and the straight side of the room. 

In the main hall the breadths of carpet should run from 
the entrance. In all halls above the main one the breadths 
should run toward the front. 

In laying straw matting the knee stretcher should be em- 
ployed except in long spaces or where the centre is full, as 
there a vise is more effective. When lining is used with mat- 
ting avoid having the seams of the lining and the matting come 
under each other. 

In carpeting a single rear room, let the breadths run the 
longest way, whether the figures point toward the windows or 
not. 

It was formerly the rule that the border of a carpet should 
follow the shape of the room except that recesses of less 
dimensions than the width of the border must be covered with 
filling or body carpet instead of border. But often at the 
present time the idea is to have a rug effect and all recesses 
are usually covered with body carpet laid outside of the border. 
This plan is frequently follow^ed in the case of a bay-window. 
The customer may decide such points. 

In all halls above the main one the top of the figure should 
point toward the front. 

The breadths in an alcove should run the same as they 
do in the room of which it is a part. 

When a back parlor and the hall are connected with the 
front parlor by large doorways, the breadths in the back room 
and hall should run as they do in the front parlor if the carpet 
is the same. 

In laying stair carpets begin at the bottom of the stairs, 
for stretchers are used in such work and the proper purchase 
cannot be obtained if the layer does not begin at the bottom 
of the stairs. 

As a rule the seams of carpets should run from front to 
rear. 

When the carpet in a hall and parlor is all of the same 
pattern, the top of the design should point toward the front 
door and front windows. If the pattern is not the same, the 



Tage Forty-one 



top of the figure in the hall carpet should run from the front 
door. 

The figures in a stair carpet should point upward. 

In laying a plain Ingrain filling carpet, run the widths 
from the door or end of the room toward the windows, as the 
seams will then be less conspicuous than they could be in any 
other way of laying. 

In cutting floor oil cloth or linoleum from i to 2 inches 
should be allowed for trimming and for irregularities possible 
in the baseboards. After being cut linoleum or floor cloth 
should be spread out on the floor for a few days, and if it is 
wrinkled it should remain spread on the floor for a week or 
more. If it wrinkles after being laid it should be cut and 
trimmed on the sides or ends as may be required. This should 
be done immediately to prevent cracking of the fabric. 

In strongly marked patterns, and particularly in floral ef- 
fects, the top of the design must point toward the windows, 
and this rule is particularly applicable to parlors and front 
rooms generally. 

Some layers claim that when a carpet has a cut pile the 
pile should run toward the strongest light, but the best au- 
thorities on this subject declare that the pile should have noth- 
ing to do with the running of the breadths^ as the figure alone 
should be studied whether the pile is cut ar not. 



Page Porty-two 



-i^S-.: 




PART 11. 



Treatment of Floors and Floor Coverings. 




Treating Floors for Rugs and Carpets. 

■^ OMETiMES when it is desired to stain and polish 
a floor, and strew rugs about.it, the boards of 
the floors are not in a fit condition : that is, they 
are uneven and badly fitted together. If in such 
a case it is decided, either on account of health, 
economy or appearance, not to have a carpet 
cover the entire floor, the first thing to do is to have the boards 
attended to. If the cracks are large, they should be filleted 
with thin strips of wood ; if only small, they may be filled in 
with putty, which, when hard, can be painted over and will 
look like the wood. All unevenness must be planed oft', and 
then the staining process may be begun. It is absolutely im- 
perative not to hurry the operation ; both the stain and the 
varnish must have plenty of opportunity to dry before the 
room is used, or all the work w^ill be in vain. This filleting 
or filling in of spaces is important, for it does away with one 
more harbor for dust, flies, etc. If there are paint spots on the 
floor they must of course be removed with turpentine before the 
stain is applied. 

The. simplest treatment is as follows: When a thoroughly 
smooth surface has been secured, let the floor be well scrubbed, 
and then left to dry, after which either of the two following 
processes can be carried out — they are both equally good : Put 
on one or two coats of size, remembering that the subsequent 
success of the staining and varnishing will greatly depend on 
the careful application of this. Xext use the ordinary oak 
stain,, light or dark, according to taste, and when this is quite 
dry, lay on the floor a coat of varnish. This must be done 
with a flat brush, which will be found to work more smoothly 
than a round one. Any painter or decorator will supply the 
varnish; only be careful to. have it mixed with quick driers. 



Papc I'orty-thrce 



% 



and, above all^ do not use the room until this last application 
is perfectly dry, otherwise the slightest mark will show, and 
the work will be wasted. Apply the varnish smoothly and in 
as straight lines as possible. 

Another process is quicker, cheaper and, provided the 
boards are smooth, almost as effective. After the floor has 
been well scrubbed and dried, apply one or two coats of or- 
dinary oak stain, the darker the better ; let this dry and then 
polish with the following mixture, which, by the way, is the 
proper thing to use on any stained floor, including those 
stained by the process given above: Melt some beeswax over 
a fire, stirring some turpentine into it at the same time; when 
it is of the consistency of stiff" paste put it into a stone 
jar. Apply a little of this mixture while warm with a good, 
firm, dr}^ scrubbing brush (kept for this purpose alone), and 
brush the floor briskly, as if polishing boots, beginning at one 
corner and taking an arm's length at a time. This ought to 
be done once in three or four weeks at least. 

The daily treatment of such floors consists in merely dust- 
ing them with a soft, dry cloth ; washing would, of course, 
discolor them ; spots can generally be removed with a little 
stain and polish. Abroad, the ''frottoir" is exclusively used 
for polishing stained floors, and it greatly* diminishes the labor, 
besides being much quicker in bringing about the desired re- 
sult. 

The most satisfactory kind of flooring is undoubtedly the 
parquet, which originally came to us from abroad. During 
recent years parquet floors have become well known among us, 
and even those in moderate circumstances can now indulge in 
this most sanitary^ decorative and labor saving kind of floor. 
Of course, a certain amount of care is required to keep it in 
proper order, but it can be done with little labor and by the 
most inexperienced domestic. When the layers have laid the 
parquet they rub it all over with a cloth dipped in French 
polish ; this has the effect of hardening the surface and render- 
ing it ready for immediate use ; moreover it will remain in 
perfect condition for about a fortnight or more, according 
to the amount of wear to which it is subject. At the end 
of this period a little beeswax melted in turpentine (as already 



Page Forty-four 



described) and rubbed over the floor with an old, soft cloth, 
will be all that is necessary to give a beautiful gloss ; or the 
"frottoir" can be used for the application with the same result. 
The daily process in such rooms would merely consist in tak- 
ing up the dust with a cloth, any little stains or spots of mud 
being easily removed by a little extra rubbing. 

]\Iore serious damage, or accidental stains, should not be 
treated without expert help. Another advantage resulting 
from parquet floors lies in the fact that with every polishing 
the surface becomes harder, less absorbent and much smoother, 
thus acquiring a richer and deeper tint. The whole secret of 
keeping up a good looking floor is to do the cleaning regu- 
larly, to watch for daily wear stains, to remove them at once 
and to do the fortnightly or periodical polishing as lightly as 
possible. More harm has been done to parquets by the thick 
application of beeswax, etc., than can possibly be imagined. 



Page Torty-five 



•*<* 



Stains for Floors. 



T 



HE foundation for nearly all kinds of wood stains 
is a combination of boiled oiL turpentine, l^urnt 
umber, burnt sienna, lampblack and chrome yel- 
low. The colors are all ground in oil. 

To make a light, hardwood stain mix to- 
gether one pint each of boiled oil and turpentine, 
one tablespoonful of burnt umber, one tablespoonful of burnt 
sienna and two tablespoonfuls of chrome yellow. This gives a 
stain suitable for hard pine and other light woods. It can be 
made several shades darker by adding an extra tablespoonful 
each of burnt umber and burnt sienna. 

To make a good walnut stain use two tablespoonfuls of 
burnt umber, three tablespoonfuls of burnt sienna, two table- 
spoonfuls of chrome yellow, half a tablespoonful of lampblack, 
one pint of boiled oil. Mix together thoroughly. 

For an old oak stain use one pint of boiled oil, one pint 
of turpentine, two tablespoonfuls of burnt umber, one table- 
spoonful of burnt sienna and two tablespoonfuls of lampblack. 
Great care must be used in mixing this that the lampblack shall 
be wholly dissolved in the liquid. 

It often happens that one does not care to imitate a particu- 
lar wood, but would like to get a soft, medium shade. This is 
easily accomplished by adding burnt umber, burnt sienna and 
chrome yellow in small quantities to the light hardwood stain, 
arid then testing on a piece of board until the required color is 
produced. This method gives the most satisfactor\- results. 
The colors used, ground in oil, cost from 15 to 20 cents a pound, 
and can be purchased in pound boxes, ^^^ood stains, to 
imitate any wood, can be purchased in paste form at about 25 
cents a pound, and you can thin them yourself, using equal 
parts of boiled oil and turpentine. 

The colors used should be ground in oil. The longer a 
floor stands before it is rubbed as a preparatory step for apply- 
ing the polish the handsomer it will be. After the stain has 
been mixed it should be tried on a piece of planed board. The 
softer woods will take a deeper color than hardwoods. 



Page Forty-six 





The Laying and Care of Linoleum. 

AYERS should not attempt to put linoleum on any 
floor that is not level, dry and hard. 

Unevenness injures the appearance and brings 
about premature and unequal wear and tear of 
the linoleum. 

Humidity causes the shrinking of the burlap 
which forms the back of the linoleum and thereby a shrinking 
of the linoleum itself, or its buckling by unequal tension, or 
its tearing in the midst of the cloth if the fastenings at the 
end do not give 'way. The same effect is brought about if 
the wood floor is shrinking or swelling. The humidity exuded 
from a cement floor contains caustic alkalis which, working 
toward the solution of the oil, soften >the linoleum. To find out 
whether the floor contains dampness, cover a few square yards 
with linoleum, and after some days see if the floor under it has 
remained dry. The state of the weather is, of course, to be 
taken into consideration. 

Softness of the floor material destroys the natural elastic- 
ity of the linoleum, and the same effect is often brought on l)y 
any soft layer under the linoleum, such as soft or thick paste- 
board. This causes the linoleum easily to give 'way to the 
pressure of the furniture, feet, etc. Moreover pasteboard 
greedily absorbs and keeps dampness, and then result putre- 
faction of the pasteboard and of the agglutinant, mustiness, 
dry rot, musty smell, vermin and damage to the linoleum. 

In the case of an uneven wood floor, the uneven places 
may be done away with, if the boards cannot be turned over, by 
planing, cutting away the knobs, driving the nails home, quoin- 
ing larger grooves, filling hollows with chalk and glue, or with 
gypsum or white wood flour and glue, as is convenient. 
Springing boards may be joined and fastened by patent dull 
edge pins. Be cautious with fresh wood having still dampness 
in it, or when the wood can imbibe dampness from anywhere. 
Linoleum cuts off the air almost entirely, therefore damp wood 
under it may get mouldy and rotten ; a sure preventive is an 
effective ventilation of the floor. 

A cement floor well smoothed, thick. dr\- and hard is a 



I'api' I'ortv -st'vcii 






first rate floor for linoleum. The proportion of cement and 
sand must be regulated with regard to the quality of the ma- 
terials ; generally one part cement to three parts sand is taken ; 
too much sand makes a sandy surface on which linoleum does 
not stick durably. With rooms having damp walls and no 
cellars under them, care is to be taken that the dampness which 
might rise or be imbibed from the floor is cut of¥. 

A gypsum floor is also a superior and ideal one for lino- 
leum if it is made correctly from the proper material, but 
pernicious and the source of much annoyance if it is made 
improperly or of inappropriate material. A good gypsum 
floor is as hard as marble, smooth and covers tightly ; a bad 
gypsum floor is powdery, porous and may easily become 
cracked and bumpy. The best gypsum floor is made from pure 
gypsum ; additions of sand, cinder and the like may make the 
gypsum floor cheaper, but cannot improve it. 

An asphalt floor is absolutely waterproof, but, for being 
covered with linoleum, it must be made with particular care. 
It should be smooth, hard and free from tar^ for soft or easily 
softened asphalt is very unfavorable for linoleum. 

Cavities in a stone floor can be filled up and equalized. 
Turpentine flour paste is desirable only for wood floors, and 
it must contain the least possible quantity of water^ be free 
of knobs, and so stiff that it can only be spread with difficulty. 
Mix one-half pound of Venetian turpentine with 6 or 7 pounds 
of rye flour ; spread sparingly and equally, avoiding accumu- 
lations of the paste. 

Linoleum cement should be used on stone, cement, gyp- 
sum, asphalt and iron. It pastes best when thinned down so 
that it can easily be spread. Good cement is absolutely proof 
against putrefaction, and while it does not withstand the 
continuous influence of humidity it does not get putrid like 
flour paste. Soiling of the surface with the cement should 
be avoided. If done it can only be removed with spirits, but 
be cautious, as spirits will cause light spots. In the cold season 
the cement, before being used, must be put in a warm room, 
kept well covered to prevent evaporation and secured against 
fire. There are no other reliable agglutinants. Dextrine de- 



Page Forty-eight 



composes almost always, and then the linoleum is constantly 
in dampness. 

Alterations of the linoleum surface are caused by the 
shrinking of the floor or cement through humidity, or by the 
extension of the fabric, especially the granite and inlaid. 
Spread the linoleum on the floor and leave it there if possible 
several days to give it time to adapt itself to the peculiar con- 
dition of the floor to be covered. As shrinking is to be antici- 
pated add, when cutting the linoleum, about 2 inches to ever\- 
18 feet in length; that is, leave about i inch at each end. 

Wet cleaning of the floors shortly before the laying of lino- 
leum is to be avoided, because the humidity is absorbed by the 
floor and afterward does mischief. The temperature is of influ- 
ence because the manipulation of cold linoleum is difficult ; 
therefore rooms which are to be covered in cold weather should 
be moderately warmed. 

To fix solely the edges is only advisable with plain and 
printed linoleum, and upon a thoroughl}- dry wood floor. 
Thinner linoleum should in all cases be pasted down entirely. 
To paste down the whole surface is the most rational plan. 
The edges should be pasted down with cement to close the 
joints against the infiltration of water. In this country many 
layers fasten linoleum on wood floors by using tacks along the 
seams only. 

Nails should be avoided. If the floor is level and smooth. 
nails, which will always disfigure the linoleum, are unneces- 
sary, but where nailing is unavoidable, small tacks without a 
head should be used. The joining toward the wall is effected 
properly if the skirting board is afterward put on top of the 
linoleum, or put on so that the linoleum can be shoved under it. 
Or a small ledge may be added to the skirt boarding. To put 
down the linoleum without the least joint between two pieces, 
overlay the edges a little bit, leaving them first free of agglu- 
tinant, then after one or two days cut off the lower overmeasure 
by carrying the knife along the upper edge, cement the edges 
down and burden them. The best loading plates for this 
purpose are made of cast iron. They should be about 17 
inches long, 11 inches wide and weigh about seven pounds. 
They must lie even and may have a solid coat of paint, whicli. 



Page Fortj'-nine 



however, must not come off, nor be sticky. If no iron plates 
are at hand, boards loaded with bricks may serve the purpose. 

The linoleum should be laid trending if possible toward 
the windows, because thus the seams are least conspicuous. 
On wood floor, lay it, if possible, athwart the boards. As is 
known, small asymmetries of the pattern cannot alwa}'s be 
avoided. They are prevented or minimized by commencing 
to lay from the middle and by stretching the one piece and 
keeping back the other. Sometimes it is necessary to take 
out a small wedge along the seam where the fault occurs 

Stair steps must not be covered quite up to the front edge. 
The linoleum must onl}^ reach so far as to have a level, firm 
base, and in the front must be sloped by knife or plane ; wdier- 
ever possible use iron or brass edge rails. Worn out wooden 
steps must previously bS equalized by a wood molding ; stone 
steps, by filling the cavities with composition, or by any other 
appropriate method. When making new concrete steps, it is 
judicious to make them with deepenings for the linoleum 
plates, or with holes for the rail dowels, or to apply the rails 
themselves. 

In case humidity has spoiled the cement and threatens to 
cause further damage, the linoleum must be taken up, and 
after being dried must not again be laid till after the floor is 
thoroughly dried out. 

Treatment, 

Furniture moving is injurious to every floor, as well as 
ttf the linoleum. As a protection from this, and also from the 
pressure of small feet of heavy furniture, celluloid tips are 
very useful. Sand and grit on shoe soles act on the surface 
of linoleum like a grater. 

Good linoleum well and carefully cleaned gains in appear- 
ance by use. The most important part of the treatment, there- 
fore, is the cleaning of the linoleum. Wash and brush it care- 
fully as often as is deemed necessary, but reniember : 

Soap contains soda; in good white soap (curd soap) the 
soda is neutralized ; in inferior soap and in so-called soft soaps 
there is an excess of soda, which, by affecting the oil, damages 
the linoleum. Use, therefore, only good neutral soap, and do 



Page Fifty 



not let the soap water dry on the linoleum, hut after eleaning 
with clear water wipe it thoroughly dry. Then the linoleum 
will not get grizzly, a defect due only to imperfect cleaning. 
It is to be remembered also that some linoleums can be easily 
injured by water. These goods should be cleaned with a cloth 
that is not wet, but only damp. 

, Oil dissolving substances, such as soda, turpentine, ben- 
zine, naphtha or spirits, etc., must not be used. Rubbing the 
linoleum off with milk, as often recommended, is useless ; 
rubbing with oil is detrimental to good linoleum, because it 
only smears the surface. Stains will almost always give way 
to soap and brush ; stains from rust caused by iron pails, iron 
furniture, feet, etc., and ink stains, can be done away \vith 
by grinding oft" with fine sandpaper and linseed oil. Much 
soiled linoleum having a crust of dirt which resists soap and 
scrubbing can be cleaned by scraping oft the worst part with 
a sharp blade or similar instrument, and then grinding oft* the 
linoleum evenly with sandpaper and linseed oil. 

Waxing is only judicious when it is done regularly. Then 
it makes the linoleimi glossy and lessens its susceptibility to 
dirt. For rooms very much used, which require often repeated 
wet cleaning, waxing is useless. After each thorough scrub- 
bing of the linoleiun, it must be newly waxed ; in regularh- 
inhabited rooms between whiles rub on — perhaps once every 
week — a little wax, and daily, after sweeping, whisk' such 
places as have grown dull with a waxing block, or with brush 
or rubbing cloth. 

Red wax should never be used, as it only smears the 
linoleum and makes a fast sticking dirt crust. Only a little 
quantity of wax should be used at a time, and this must l)e 
well and thinly dispersed. Wait while polishing it until the 
volatile dissolving ingredients have evaporated. 



-T-^ Page Fiftv-oiic 







Carpet Moths and Beetles. 

XPERIENCED dealers in the trade need no instruc- 
tion in the matter of protecting their stock from 
moths and carpet beetles ; but in the carpet busi- 
ness, as in all others, old hands are constantly 
dropping out, and the new ones who take their 
places are not always well informed on certain 
points of no small importance to every dealer. 

The carpet moth, which is simply the ordinary clothes 
moth, is the best known among those insects that attack car- 
pets, and it is also the one most easily baffled. Camphor was 
long regarded as a sure protection from moths ; but it is not 
now considered trustworthy, nor are the cheaper substitutes 
for it, such as camphorette, moth balls, etc., believed to be 
any more effective, either in killing the insects or in keeping 
them out of a carpet. They may protect clothing in which 
no moth in any stage of its existence is present, but when the 
insect has actually been discovered in a garment, carpet or 
rug a stronger remedy than camphor is necessary. 

Most dealers in Oriental rugs now depend entirely upon 
a daily sweeping of their goods with a stiff broom, and this 
is really the only sure protection for rugs, domestic or Oriental, 
and carpets in stock. One domestic manufacturing concern 
producing a great quantity of rugs always brushes the larger 
sizes carefully after the shearing, then rolling each rug sepa- 
•rately, wraps it in stout paper and over this covering sews 
another one of burlap. In the case of a stock of carpets in 
a retail store benzine is excellent as a remedy and a pre- 
ventive. None of the insects which prey upon woolen fabrics 
can endure the odor of benzine, and it is sure to kill them if it 
can be brought into contact with them with a brush or else 
as a spray. It can be applied by means of an ordinary atomizer. 
When the carpet to be treated is on the floor not only 
the ends and edges but the entire surface should be sprayed 
or brushed. Benzine has the disadvantage of being very in- 
flammable, and therefore requiring great care in use. A prep- 
aration of cayenne pepper, strychnine and water is said to be 
equally effective ; but while not inflammable, it is poisonous. 



Page Fifty-two 



The proportions of the mixture are : Pepper, one-quarter of 
a pound; water, i gallon, and strychnine (in powder), 2 
drams. Steep the pepper in the water, then add the strych- 
nine ; strain and pour the mixture into a shallow vessel. Take 

up the carpet from the floor, beat it 
well, then roll it up and set each end 
alternately in the vessel, so that the edges 
of the carpet will be thoroughly satu- 
rated for about an inch. The two ends 
of the roll should also be well saturated. 
When the fabric is dry it can be tacked 
down again. Another mixture which 
can be used in the same way is composed 
of I pound of quassia chips, one-quarter 
of a pound of cayenne pepper and 2 gal- 
lons of water. The preparation in which 
strychnine is employed, of course, re- 
quires careful handling, and if put away 
for future use should be labeled as poison. When either of 
these preparations is used on a carpet which is on the floor 
the entire surface as well as the edges should be sprayed, jnst 
as when benzine is employed. 

Corrosive sublimate will kill any moth or beetle, but its 
use demands as much care as benzine. To get the best results 
from it take a wide mouthed earthen jar, pour into it 2 quarts 
of water and dissolve in this a teaspoonful of corrosive subli- 




MOTH AND CATER- 
PILLAR. 




CARPET BEETLES. 



Page I'ifty-three 



■'» 



mate. The jar should be kept covered and labeled as poison. 
Hang the carpet or rug to be treated on a line, and then brush 
both sides of the fabric with a whisk which has been dipped 
in the mixture. It is not necessary to wet the carpet, a slight 
dampening being sufficient. Gloves should be worn and care 
taken to prevent any of the solution touching the face or eyes. 

When a house is actually infested with moths or beetles 
the carpet should be taken up and all the cracks and crevices 
in the floors and beneath the baseboards sprayed with benziae. 
The carpets should also be well beaten and sprayed before 
being relaid. As an additional precaution, the cracks and 
crevices may be filled with a mixture of plaster of paris and 
water, which will soon set and form a hard substance, which 
the insects cannot penetrate. 

The Buffalo beetle in three stages of existence, and the 
ordinary caterpillar in two, are shown in the illustrations on 
page 53, in which a and b represent the larva forms of the 
beetle, c the insect when it has emerged from the pupal case, 
d the fully developed beetle, with its markings in black and 
scarlet, and e the carpet moth and the caterpillar from which 
it comes. The body and wings of the beetle are black, spotted 
with white, and the stripe running down the centre of the 
back is scarlet. 



Page Fifty-four 



sprouting. 

SPROUTING in ninety-nine cases in a hnndred is 
caused by no defect whatever in the carpet, but 
by the use of a broom too coarse and stiff for 
sweeping any kind of carpet. 

The face of a Brussels carpet is composed of 
loops of worsted yarns packed closely together. 
When any one loop has been formed the particular worsted 
thread of which the loop is a portion sinks beneath the linen 
or cotton cross thread, and remains with other threads in the 
body of the fabric until it is required to make another loop on 
the surface. These surface loops are held in position bv the 
cross threads (weft), the closeness of the fabric and the in- 
termingling of the various strands of worsted. Not being 
tied or knotted down, should any loop be caught or pulled by 
a sharp point in brush, broom, boot, paw or claw, then the 
worsted underneath will be drawn above the surface, and 
the loose ends and tag will form a case of sprouting. 

The trouble is especially liable to occur in first class goods, 
in which the yarn is fine, soft and highly dressed, and in car- 
pets in which the ground is not well covered. If customers 
seem to prefer carpets having such a ground, it is advisable 
for the salesman to tell them that they must run some risk as 
regards sprouting and also to warn them against pulling out 
any loose threads they may discover. 

Being thus forew^arned, the housewife seeing loose threads 
or a kind of fuzzy nap appear does not jump to the conclu- 
sion that she has been cheated, but simply notifies the dealer 
and he can apply the only remedy, which is to clip off at once 
all the loose ends. With - careful, close clipping the ends 
gradually get flattened down and the trouble ceases. 

If possible the housewife should avoid sweeping a Brus- 
sels carpet until it has been several months on the floor and 
the loops have been trodden down somewhat. If sweeping 
becomes absolutely necessary no broom should be used, but a 
good carpet sweeper should be run over the carpet very 
carefully. 

In most cases of sprouting the dealer may feel assured 

Page Fifty-five 




that the fault is not in the carpet but in the treatment it has 
received in the customer's house. It is therefore essential for 
him to place all complaints about sprouting in the hands of 
an experienced carpet man competent to remedy the trouble 
and also to discover its cause. Such a man will endeavor to 
find out whether dogs or cats are allowed the use of the room 
or not. A cat's claws are capable of pulling out threads in a 
very destructive way, and a parrot can use both beak and claws 
to the same purpose. The casters of all articles of furniture 
in the room should be examined, and likewise all legs of tables, 
chairs, etc., not provided with casters. Besides rough casters 
and jagged ends of wood there are nails in boot heels to bear 
in mind. 

But the greatest danger to carpets comes from the ordi- 
nary broom in the hands of a muscular maid who is not in- 
telligent enough to realize the force she is exerting. The 
carpet dealer cannot dwell too strongly upon the necessity for 
using a carpet sweeper instead of a broom. 

Hanging Window Shades. 

N measuring a window for a shade take the length 
measure first. With the tape line measure from 
the top of the lower sash to the sill, and double 
this will be the full length, provided, of course, 
that the two sashes are of equal length. If they 
differ in this respect, measure the height of the 
\vindow between the casings. 

Shades may be hung in the run of the window over the 
pulleys, or on the casing or the stop-head. An advantage in 
placing them in the run of the window is that there they will 
not come in contact with the draperies that may be employed. 
The measurements should be taken with a tape line. 




Page Fifty-six 





Uses for Odds and Ends of Carpeting. 

ARiED indeed are the uses which are found for the 
odds and ends of carpeting, the remnants, chp- 
pings and waste which accumulate in a work- 
room in the regular course of the carpet dealer's 
business. 

Cuttings of carpets from half an inch up are 
used in innumerable ways. The smaller ones are cut into strips 
and woven, like a rag carpet, into rugs and mats. Larger 
pieces are used for hassocks and ottomans, the tops of parlor 
step-ladders, camp chairs, baby carriages, sleighs, buggies, 
blacking boxes, etc. Mitres are made up into mats, all sizes, 
from a 9 inch to a ^ border being utilized. .They are used 
under lamp stands, piano stools, etc.^ but the greatest demand 
is from hotel keepers, to whom thousands are sold every year 
for use under slop jars, cuspidors, etc., in bedrooms. Large 
quantities of carpet remnants are also sold to slipper manu- 
facturers. Oil cloth stair crash is used for the bottoms of 
hassocks and as binding for the seams. Cuttings of Wilton 
and \''elvet carpet find ready sale among hatters, who have 
long since learned that they make better brushes for silk hats 
than the article specially manufactured for the purpose. 

Ravelings of Ingrains are sold to be woven into niats. 
Large quantities are sent to charitable institutions, and one 
leading house, as soon as its travelers have prepared their In- 
grain samples, sends many pounds to Ward's Island, where 
they are fashioned into many curious and sometimes very hand- 
some rugs by the lunatics in the asylum located there. \ ery 
many are also sold to men who make the toy balls guaranteed 
not to break windows. Drugget clippings are used for weather 
strips, and are also made into list carpets. 

Remnants and shavings from slieet oil cloths have long 
been known in the hospitals as valuable for splints. The 
lighter oil cloth remnants, narrow goods, find ready sale among 
a certain class of shoemakers, who utilize them for insoles 
and will pay from five to seven cents a pound for them. Still 
larger pieces are sought by makers of barber chairs, who use 
them as covers for the foot rests. 



Page I'itty-scvcn 



mtk 



Pieces of China matting make ornamental baskets, fiowei 
boxes, Japanese screens and other articles. The white is more 
in demand and commands a higher price than the fancy or 
red check. The wrappers which come around China mattings 
are purchased at one and two cents apiece by the wholesale 
produce dealers, who use them for heading up barrels. 

Bits of plush disappear into buttons for upholstered fur- 
niture, and cretonne cuttings are sold by the pound to the fancy 
stores for slipper bags and other like articles. Where the 
figure is complete they are used for panels. 

And when the workroom is swept and there seems nothing 
left, the hassock maker will buy the small bits for hassock 
ears, while the rest can go to the "devil machine," where it is 
ground into shoddy. 



Page Fifty-eight 



Making a Rug from Pieces of Body Carpet and Border. 



T" HE carpet workroom force can often be utilized to 
considerable advantage in the making up of rugs 
from body carpet and border, and there is prob- 
ably no other way in which remnants can be em- 
ployed more profitably. 

Two breadths of carpet with a 5-8 border 
will make a rug 8 feet 3 inches by 10 feet 6 inches, but a more 
salable size can be made by using three breadths of carpet, as 
this will give a rug 10 feet 6 inches wide, while the length may 
be 15 feet or more or less. In arranging the borders for such 
rugs the cutting of the mitres leaves pieces which can be best 
utilized in making a smaller rug. by using three full mitres and 
two half mitres. After the sewing this small rug, if made of 
5-8 border, will be 3 feet 8 inches in width and length. 

In making the large rug the border is sewed together 
first ; next the three breadths of body carpet, and then the 
border is sewed to the body. The next operation necessary is 
the stretching of the rug, and before this is done a strip of 
webbing should be sewed all around the rug. It is then laid 
face downward on the workroom floor and nails are driven into 
the webbing not more than 4 inches apart, a carpet stretcher 
being used in this process. The back of the rug is then rubbed 
over with a wet sponge and the seams are pressed down with 
a long-handled pressing iron made for the purpose. As the 
rug has been stretched while being nailed to the lienor the 
additional stretching caused by the shrinking of the fabric, as 
the water and sizing dry, is sufficient to remove all wrinkles. 
When the nails have been taken out and the webbing removed 
the rug should be perfectly smooth and lie flat on the floor. 
It should then be rolled carefully on a pole so that it nia\- 1)e 
kept smooth. 

In some carpet workrooms it is customary to make up two 
rugs at the same time, in order to save the material cut out 
in forming the mitres. For instance, by making two rugs at 
once, each 8 feet 3 inches by 10 feet 6 inches, it is possible to 
save 5 vards of border hy cutting a mitre for one rug and then 
utilizing the next mitre made bv transferrin^: it to tin- other 



PaRC Kifty-nine 



rug. An objection to this method is that it affects the appear- 
ance of the rug, for when the outer edge of a border is made 
the inner edge the fact is always apparent at a glance. 



Page Sixty 



Ik r 



PART III. 

Dictionary of Carpets, Other Floor Coverings 
and Trade Terms. 



X 



Art Loom Rugs. — The distinctive feature of these rugs is 
that they are woven two at a time, face to face, and then 
separated by the passage of a knife between the two faces. 
In separating the two rugs the knife forms a cut pile re- 
sembhng that of the Wilton fabric. The rugs are then 
sheared, steamed through the back, resheared, brushed and 
put on drums for a second steaming process, which raises 
the pile and gives it a beautiful sheen. The rugs are made 
in one piece in all the usual carpet sizes. The Ayeaving 
is done with a power loom with a Jacquard attachment. 
Although the face of the rug resembles the Wilton weave, 
an important difTference is that all of the worsted or wool 
used is on the face, none being buried in the forming of 
the pattern. The process is covered by numerous patents. 

Art Square. — An Ingrain, Pro-Brussels or Granite carpet 
woven in one piece. 

Aubusson Carpets. — These carpets are made in the tapestry y 
factories at Aubusson, France. The warp is cotton and 
the weft consists of woolen yarns of the color called for 
by the design. The weaver works at the low warp tapestry 
loom, which is always used in making Aubusson tapestry, 
and the carpet he weaves dififers from the tapestry mainly 
in being of thicker and coarser weave. The' weft yarns 
are inserted in the ground of the carpet by hand, as the 
design indicates, the workman using for this purpose a 
small bobbin or broach similar to that which is used in 
making a Gobelin tapestry. 

Axminster Carpets. — The old-fashioned hand-made .\xmins- 
ter carpet, better known now as the hand-tufted rug, has a 
warp of linen or cotton threads and a pile of woolen tufts 
tied on the warp by hand after tlic ( )ricntal method. 



Page Sixty-on* 



•#■ 



In the machine-made chenille Axminsters^ the chenille 
is first woven so as to form a double fringe of colored 
yarn with a fine thread running along the centre to keep 
the lengths of wool taut. This fabric is then cut into 
strips, each of which is bound into a V^-shape, so that the 
double fringe becomes a series of thick tufts of wool side 
by side and firmly held together by the binding thread. 
This chenille is then ready to serve as the weft of the carpet 
fabric, being laid across the warp threads and woven into 
place in the loom. A hand loom with a catcher and binder 
warp was used for all chenille Axminsters w4der than 27 
inches until about twelve 3^ears ago, when the Persian Rug 
Manufactory began to employ power weft and setting 
looms of widths up to 25 feet. 

In the American machine-made Axminster carpet, 
formerly called Moquette, the pile consists of tufts of 
woolen yarn which are inserted in the warp and woven into 
the body of the fabric by an ingenious and complicated 
mechanical device, which serves as a substitute for the 
Oriental method of tying tufts of wool on a warp in a hand 
loom with the fingers. 

Batten, Lay or Comb. — A swinging bar which beats up or 
forces closely together the weft yearns in the operation of 
weaving. 

Beam. — A round, horizontal part of a loom, on which the warp 
or the woven fabric is wound. 

Bobbin. — A spool carried b)^ the shuttle and on which the weft 
or filling is wound. 

Body Brussels. — The carpeting known as Body Brussels con- 
sists of a worsted yarn built upon a linen or cotton chain 
and a linen weft. The worsted warp which forms the face 
of the carpet is wound on reels or bobbins arranged on 
large horizontal frames^ which are placed one above the 
other in the rear of the loom. Each reel supplies one 
thread of worsted to the loom. The loops which appear 
on the face of the fabric are made by the insertion of wires 
when the worsted warp has been raised by the operation 
of the Jacquard. These wires are withdrawn and inserted 
again at regular intervals as the weaving proceeds. Each 



Page Sixty-two 



,A 4ft 



yarn is raised into the face of the carpet or dropped into 
the body according to the pattern on the Jacquard. The 
number of frames used never exceeds six, and when more 
than six colors are required by the pattern they are ob- 
tained by "planting" warps of different colors on the same 
frame. The materials used in Body Brussels carpet are a 
cotton small chain, a worsted warp thread, a jute stuft'er 
chain and a linen filling or weft thread. 

Wilton carpets are woven just as Brussels are, except- 
ing that the wires used in making Wiltons have a sharp 
blade attached, and so arranged that when they are drawn 
out the blades cut the loops open, and thus form a plush 
surface. The pile of a AA^ilton carpet is higher than the 
loops of a Brussels, because the wire used is generally 
thicker. Another difference is that there are three shots of 
linen weft thread in Wilton to each wire, while in Brussels 
there are but two shots. 
Brussels, Stouts. — A Brussels carpet having from 208 to 220 
ends of worsted warp to each frame instead of 256 ends, 
as in regular five frame Brussels. In weaving Stouts, jute 
yarn is used to replace the worsted yarn omitted, and also 
to give body to the fabric. 
Brussels, Tapestry. — See Tapestry Carpets. 
Chain. — The warp thread of a fabric; the pattern chain. 
China Matting. — See Straw Matting. 
Cloth Beam. — The bar on which a fabric is wound as it is 

woven in the loom. 
Cocoa Matting and Mats. — The material used in these goods 
is a yarn spun from the fibrous rind or husk of the cocoa- 
nut. The yarn is imported from India. The ordinary 
matting is woven with a kind of twill formed by the 
manipulation of the warp in a particular manner, and a 
striped appearance is given when desired by reversing the 
order in which the warp threads are drawn into tlie har- 
ness. To make colored stripes the warp threads are dyed 
and then arranged on the beam to get the eft'ect desired 
in the Avoven fabric. 

Cocoa mats are made in two ways. In one mctliod 
the filling yarn is inserted in tlic warp and wonnd on a 



I'age Sixty-three 



metal rod, which has a groove in it. A straight thread is 
run through as a binder, the filhng is then cut by running 
a knife along the groove, and a cut pile is thus produced 
on the face of the mat. In the other process the yarn is 
twisted into a thick braid, and a piece of this long enough 
for the purpose is placed on a sort of table and woven into 
a mat by the hands of the workman, no loom being em- 
ployed. 

Color, Complementary. — One of two colors which when com- 
bined produce white or nearly white light, as orange and 
blue. 

Color, Primary. — i. The principal colors into which white 
light is separated by a prism. 2. Those colors which when 
mixed (in pigments) produce any color, as red, blue, yel- 
low. 

Color, Secondary. — Three colors, each of which is formed by 
mixing two so-called primary colors, as green (blue and 
yellow), orange (red and yellow), and purple (red and 
blue). 

Color, Tertiary. — A color such as olive, russet or citrine, pro- 
duced by a mixture of a primary and a secondary color. 

Comb. — See Batten. 

Cop. — A conical roll of thread or 3'arn found on the spindle of 
a spinning machine. 

Cop Tube. — The tube on which the thread or yarn is wound. 

Cork Carpet. — A fabric resembling plain linoleum and made in 
the same manner except that in the mixture of linseed oil,. 

' ground cork and other materials employed the proportion 
of cork is larger and the result is a softer, more sponge- 

' like surface. The cork used is not ground so finely as it 
is in making linoleum. 

Cotton Chain. — See Ingrain Carpet. 

Doone Rug. — A three-ply, seamless, reversible Scotch weave 

rug. The Afton rug is a two-ply fabric of the same weave. 
Drop Box. — A box used in a figure-weaving loom to hold a 

number of shuttles, any one of which may be brought into 

operation as desired. 
Drop and Set Patterns. — In a drop pattern the upper half of 



Page Sixty-four 



4%r:;'J" 



the figure matches the lower half of the figure on the 
opposite side of the breadth. 

In a set pattern the same figures match directly op- 
posite — that is, across the breadth. 

A drop pattern cuts at a set only on alternate breadths. 
On one breadth half the length of the figure must be wasted 
to get a match. 

Extra Super Carpet. — See Ingrain Carpet. 

Fiber Carpet. — This is a fabric invented and first manufac- 
tured by Frank F. Hodges, of Boston, Mass. A long- 
staple vegetable fiber is converted into paper, which is 
then cut into long strips and spun into threads, and these 
when dyed are used as the weft in weaving the carpet, the 
warp being cotton. \\'oolen yarn may be used as the weft 
in combination with the fiber threads. 

Filling, Weft, Woof. — The threads or yarns thrown by the 
shuttle through the warp from selvage to selvage. 

Floor Oil Cloth. — This fabric is composed of a foundation of 
jute burlap which, after being sized and rubbed smooth 
and even, is covered with a mixture of ochre, linseed oil 
and benzine. This coating process is performed several 
times. The printing of the pattern on the coated fabric was 
formerly done entirely by hand, but now machinery is 
used. In printing by machinery the cloth passes over a flat 
table, and under wooden printing blocks, which have a 
rising and falling motion. Each color used in the pattern 
requires a separate block. The pattern is carved on the 
blocks in relief. 

<jranite Carpet. — This is a two-ply fabric made on an Ingrain 
loom. Il has two warps, one of cotton and the other of 
jute. The filling is cotton. Sometimes cotton warp is used 
mstead of jute. The pattern is formed by the warp. 

Hand=Tufted Rugs. — This name is now applied in the trade 
to rugs made in Europe by a method similar to that o\ the 
Oriental weavers. They were made in France in the reign 
of Francis I ; in Italy and Spain somewhat before that 
period, and in England at ^lortlake under the patronage of 
lames I. This industry was afterward removed to Wilton. 
In the latter part of the eighteenth century the manufac- 



Papc Sixty-five 



/\ 



tiire of such rugs was begun in a factory near Vienna, also 
in Holland, and in 1840 I. Ginzkey began to make them in 
the firm's works in Bohemia. They are also made in several 
factories in Germany. About twelve years ago Alexander 
Morton & Co. introduced the industry in Ireland, the result 
being the rug now known as the Donegal hand tufted. The 
manufacture of hand-tufted rugs was begun in America in 
1884 by the Persian Rug Manufactory, but was discon- 
tinued some years ago on account of the high cost of labor 
in this country. 

Harness. — An apparatus used for lifting threads in a loom. 

Harness Frame. — An upright board for guiding the cords of a 
loom harness. 

Harness Shaft. — A device for holding and guiding the heddles 
in a loom. 

Heck. — A vertical grated frame, through the meshes of which 
the warp threads pass. 

Heddle or Heald. — A series of vertical cords or wires, each of 
which has in the middle a loop or eye, which receives a 
warp thread. The heddles pass around and between paral- 
lel bars, forming part of the harness, and by rising and 
falling alternately cross the warp threads and form sheds 
for the passage of the shuttle. 

Hemp Carpet. — A fabric made with a jute warp and filling in 
two or more plies. Sometimes the warp is cotton. 

Ingrain Carpet. — Ingrain is a carpet made of two plies or 
webs. The warp may be worsted or cotton. Each ply has 
its particular color. The warp threads are moved by the 
Jacquard. For a two-color effect the filling threads arc 
thrown b}^ the shuttle from right to left and then about or 
back again. In the shotabout ply two or more shuttles are 
used. When both plies are shuttled with two colors each 
the weave is called a double shotabout. In a plain and 
shotabout weave, one ply is plain and the other is a shot- 
about ply composed of threads of two or more different 
colors alternating and giving the effect of three colors in 
the carpet. In double shotabout each ply is a shotabout 
one, giving a design in four colors. Until the invention of 
the mate thread weave two dark threads could not be 



Page Sixty-six 



brought up together in a carpet, it being necessary to bring 
a Hght one up with a dark thread or vice versa. The mate 
thread device, by enabhng the weaver to bring up either 
Hght or dark threads together, made four-color effects pos- 
sible. 

Union Carpet is an ingrained two-ply fabric in which 
the filling is other than all wool. 

An Extra Super is an Ingrain carpet in which the 
warp is always worsted and the filling wool. 

Cotton Chain carpet is an Ingrain carpet in which a 
cotton cham is used instead of a worsted warp. 

Jute Ingrain is made like an Ingrain carpet, but with 
a cotton warp and a jute filling. 

Jacquard. — An apparatus used for weaving figure patterns. It 
consists of a chain of perforated cards, which move over 
a rotating prism. The perforations permit the passage of 
wires, which determine by their movements the raising of 
the warp threads, and thus cause the figure to be woven 
in accordance with the arrangement of the perforations. 

Japan Matting. — See Straw ]\Iatting. 

Jute Ingrain. — See Ingrain Carpet. 

Kidderminster. — An Ingrain carpet, so called because first 
manufactured largely at Kidderminster, England. 

Kilmarnock. — This is a name given to a rug made in this 

country which is similar to the Scotch Art Rug, but is \ 
bound in a dift'erent manner. The back is closely bound, 
each warp thread stitching ii down as if it were done by 
a sewing machine. The back has double the number of 
binders that are in the face, and the binding is done in 
such a way as to bury fully the warp, thus protecting it 
from wear. Strong stuffer warp running in tlic centre 
holds the binders in solidly with the woof. Thi> process 
results in two distinctive weaves in one, and renders pos- 
sible raised or embossed figure eft'ects. 

Lay. — See Batten. 

Lignitect. — This is a fabric which resembles linoleum, except 
that ground wood is used in it as in linoleum ground 
cork is employed. The woods most commonly used are 
white poplar and horse chestnut. 

Page Sixty-seven 



Linoleum. — In the manufacture of linoleum a jute burlap 
backing or foundation is covered with a paste-like mixture 
consisting mainly of ground cork and linseed oil, the oil 
having been previously solidified by a drying process. The 
coating is fixed upon the burlap evenly and firmly by the 
passage of both between two cylinders. If the linoleum is 
to be plain — that is, of one uniform color — the coloring 
matter is added to the mixture before it is rolled upon the 
burlap. If the linoleum is to bear a pattern this is printed 
on the surface of the fabric by means similar to those 
employed in the printing of floor oil cloth. In making 
inlaid linoleum the paste-like mixture is fixed upon the 
burlap by several different methods. In one process the 
mixture and the burlap are united by machinery w^hich 
cuts the composition into pieces and then presses these 
pieces upon the burlap. In another process the mixture is 
cut by dies into pieces, which are fixed upon the burlap by 
hand. In forming some patterns stencils are employed. 
In making oak-plank linoleum the mixture is colored in 
two tones, each of which is placed on the burlap in a 
separate channel. In granite Imoleum the composition 
consists of a mixture of colors. 

Linoleum Cement. — A combination -of chemicals which pro- 
duces a liquid glue or cement with minimum quick drying 
and maximum toughness as its principal properties. It 
should be tough and tenacious, and hold the linoleum in its 
original position. Cements in liquid form go farther, 
hold better and are always ready for use. They should 
be waterproof and not subject to decomposition. 

Loom. — A machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a 
fabric by the crossing of the w^arp or chain by other threads 
called the weft or filling. 

Moquette Carpet. — The old-fashioned French Aloquette is a 
cut pile carpet resembling Wilton, but woven on a hand 
loom. The American carpets made on power looms, and 
formerly known as Moquettes, are now called Axminsters. 
See Axminster Carpet. 

Napier Matting. — This species of floor covering dift"ers from 
hemp (jute) carpet mainly in being composed of larger. 



Page Sixty-eight 



heavier yarn. The warp ^nd weft are usually jute, but 
sometimes the warp is cotton. 

Oriental Rugs. — These fabrics are made by attaching threads 
of wool to a warp of cotton or wool by running knots, then 
inserting a weft of cotton or wool for the back, pressing 
the knots home with a wooden or iron comb, and finally 
leveling the woolen pile with a pair of scissors. The loom 
' is a simple vertical frame carrying two horizontal beams, 
one about a foot from the ground or flioor and the other 
six or seven feet above. The warp is coiled around the 
upper beam, and when fastened to the lower one also is 
pulled taut enough to keep the threads straight. The 
Oriental rugs best known in the United States are made in 
Persia, the Caucasus districts and Turkestan. Turkish and 
India rugs are also imported here to some extent, but in 
much larger quantities to Great Britain and the Continent 
of Europe. 

For a comprehensive^, up-to-date treatise on rugs of 
the Orient the reader is referred to a book entitled "Ori- 
ental Rugs and Carpets," in which the salient features, 
designs, colorings, etc., of every kind of Eastern rug in 
the market are described fully, and also shown by illustra- 
tions, so that the salesman can soon learn to distinguish 
at once the various species and grades. This book is pub- 
lished by The Review Publishing Company, 31 East Seven- 
teenth street, New York. Price, $1.50. 

Pattern Card. — The perforated card in a Jacquard apparatus, 
representing part of the pattern. 

Pattern Chain. — A device for operating the shuttle in figure 
weaving. 

Pick. — I. The blow that drives a loom shuttle. .2. A unit of 
speed or measurement of work done by a loom. 

Picker Staff (or Stick). — A lever used to impart motion to a 
shuttle. 

Pro=Brussels. — A carpet woven on an Ingrain loom Imi with 
both faces bound together. The war]i threads are of jute, 
one-half of them being used for binding threads and the 
other half as a stufifer. The pattern is produced entirely 
by the interweaving of the weft, which is wool. 



Page .Sixty-nine 



Rag Carpet. — The old-fashioned rag carpet is made with a 
cotton warp and a weft composed of rags which have been 
cut into strips and then sewn together. In the modern 
factor}-made rag carpet strips of new material are em- 
ployed instead of rags. 

Reed.^This part of a loom consists of two horizontal bars, 
connected by thin parallel strips between which the warp 
threads pass. It is used to keep the threads separated from 
one another, and also to preserve the proper distance be- 
tween the selvage threads. 

Savonnerie. — The French carpet known as Savonnerie is 
w^oven by hand in one piece on high warp tapestry looms 
in the Gobelin tapestry factory, but Savonnerie carpets are 
velvets, not tapestries. The warp is wound vertically on 
two horizontal cylinders, and arranged as in the tapestry 
loom, but the worsted woof threads, which are to form the 
surface or pile of the carpet, are fastened by a double knot 
on two threads of the warp, which is of wool and double, 
combining itself with the threads of the surface, and bound 
in by a hemp weft, which does not appear on the surface. 
The pile is clipped by hand with shears, and in the highest 
grack goods this is generally done so that the design is 
brought out in relief. 

In the United States the name Savonnerie is also 
given to a carpet woven like the American Moquette or 
Axminster on a power loom, but of somewhat thicker, 
heavier weave. 

Scotch Art Rugs. — These goods are similar in weave to the 
Ingrain Art Squares, but the w^ool or worsted yarn used 
is heavier and the fabric is more closely bound. It is 
woven in one piece, and with either two or three plies. 
Some manufacturers vary more or less the process of 
weaving the rugs, and have special names for the goods. 

Set Pattern. — See Drop Pattern. 

Shade. — A color mixed with black. 

Shuttle. — A boat-shaped piece of wood which holds the bob- 
bin from which the weft thread or filling unwinds as the 
shuttle moves to and fro between the warp threads. 

ShuttIe=Box. — I. A case placed at the end of the shuttle-race 



Page Seventy 



to receive the shuttle after it has been thrown by the 
picker. 2. One of a series of compartments containing 
shuttles carrying different colored threads. 

Shuttle=Race. — The track on which the shuttle travels in a 
loom. 

Skin Rugs and Mats. — These goods are made from the pelts 
of goats, sheep, tigers, bears, wolves, foxes, dogs and other 
animals. The first step in the manufacture is the salting 
of the pelts , then follow the soaking, scraping and scour- 
ing, stretching of the skin and applying a solution of alum 
and salt to the flesh side to close the pores and tighten the 
roots of the fleece. The dyeing of sheepskin mats is a 
difficult operation, requiring long experience and great 
care. 

Smyrna Rugs and Carpets. — In making Smyrna rugs and 
carpets dyed woolen yarn is woven as weft in the weft- 
weaving loom so as to form the pattern. While the weav- 
ing is progressing the cotton warp yarns are twisted by the 
movement of a cam. When the weft has been woven it 
is cut into strips which, owing to the previous twisting of 
the warp, form at once the fur-like shape characteristic of 
chenille. The strips are then used as weft in the setting 
loom, in which the warp is cotton, and jute yarn is woven 
in as filling between each strip of chenille. The fabric 
comes from this loom with the pattern exactly reproduced, 
and as the wool yarn is on both sides the fabric has two 
faces. 

Straw Matting. — The matting which comes from China and 
Japan is made from a species of reed or grass which grows 
in those countries, but in a large proportion of the mat- 
ting made in Japan the straw used is smaller than that 
which is generally employed in China. In both China and 
Japan the loom on which the matting is woven consists 
merely of an upright bamboo framework with cylindrical 
crosspieces above and below, over which the jute or cotton 
warp runs. The movement of the warp is governed by 
the weaving beam or bar, a piece of wood 2 inches square 
and pierced with small holes to receive the warp threads, 
the front row of holes beiuL"- about three-sixteenths of an 



Papi- .'^cvcntyone 



inch to the right or left of those on the opposite face, 
through which the other row of warp is threaded. The 
weaver handles his bar by means of a peg inserted mid- 
way in it. When the peg is turned up the front row of 
warp threads moves back, and when the movement of the 
peg is reversed the back row of threads moves forward. 
Between each upward and downward turn of the bar the 
weaver's assistant draws from a bundle a straw of the 
color called for by the pattern, catches it in a notch cut 
in the end of a slender piece of bamboo about 4 feet in 
length, and holding the straw in this way places it hori- 
zontally between the two rows of warp threads. The 
weaver seizes the end of the straw, which passes beyond 
the left-hand selvage and twists it around the selvage 
cord, while the assistant twists the right-hand end in the 
same way. Then the beam is brought down with sufficient 
force to press the warp straws closely together. 
Tapestry and Velvet Carpets. — The salient feature of the 
manufacture of Tapestry or Tapestry Brussels and A'el- 
vet carpeting is the printing of the pattern on the yarn 
warp, thread by thready before the carpet itself is woven 
on the loom. The pattern is drawn and colored on rule 
paper, just as the Body Brussels pattern is laid out^ and 
this paper is cut into strips which serve as guides in the 
dyeing of the yarn. The white yarn is wound around a 
large drum, and underneath this is a small carriage run- 
ning on rails, and containing a quantity of dye in which a 
wheel revolves, the top of the wheel being just high enough 
to touch the thread on the drum, and thus cover it with 
dye. The printer, referring to his pattern, sees the color 
needed for, say, the first square in it, and the carriage is 
then passed along the rails, so that the color required is 
printed or ruled across the thread. The thread is removed 
from the drum when all the colors needed for it have been 
applied, and after steaming and drying it is wound on a 
spool, and is then taken in hand by the setters, who draw 
each thread out side by side and move each one to its 
proper place as it appears in a somewhat elongated copy of 
the pattern, which is placed on the setting machine under- 



Page Seventy-two 



neath the threads. As a certain portion of the threads is 
passed it is wound on the roller at the other end, and when 
the setting process is completed the yarn on this roller is 
ready to be woven in the loom. Tapestry carpeting has a 
jute stuff er yarn, a cotton chain^ and a linen, jute, or cot- 
ton weft, which serves as a binding thread for the wool or 
worsted loops, these being made over wires, as in the 
weaving of Body Brussels. 

Velvet carpeting is the same as Tapestry Brussels, 
excepting that the wire used in the weaving has a knife- 
like edge which cuts open the loops as it is withdrawn and 
forms a pile surface as in Wilton carpeting. The best 
Velvet carpets also resemble Wiltons in having three shots 
of filling weft to each Avire, but in the medium and lower 
grades only two shots are used. 

"Surface" or "machine printed" Tapestry and A el vet 
carpets are made by weaving yarn undyed or of a uniform / 

color or tone on a Tapestry loom, with the loops cut for 
\'elvet or uncut for Tapestry. The fabric is then submit- 
ted to the action of a printing machine, in which the car- 
pet is wound upon a large drum, and pattern rollers, en- 
graved to produce the design desired, revolve in contact 
with the face of the fabric, one roller being used for each 
color. By this method of applying the colors they are 
printed not only on the face of the carpet but through the 
fabric to the back. 
Temple. — An attachment to a loom which holds the last woven 
part of a fabric stretched to prevent chafing of the warp in 
weaving. 
Three=ply. — A carpet woven on an Ingrain loom, but with 
three plies instead of two, and therefore not an Ini^rain 
weave. 
Tint. — A color diluted with white. 
Union. — See Ingrain Carpet. 
Velvet. — See Tapestry and A^elvet Carpet. 
Venetian Carpet. — This is a two-ply carpet, having a \\no\ or 
cotton warp and a jute filling. Tlic warp is co]nre<l and 
makes the figure effect. A Jac(|uard is used, but in a icrm 



V 



I'age Seventy-three 



/a* , 



X 



much less complicated than is necessary in weaving an 
Ingrain carpet. 

Warp. — The threads or yarn running lengthwise in a fabric, 
and between which the cross threads of weft or filling are 
woven. 

Warp Beam. — The roller on which the warp is wound. 

Web. — A textile fabric, a name used especially to designate a 
fabric in the piece or being woven in the loom. 

Weft, Filling, Woof. — See Filling. 

Weft Fork. — That part of the stop motion which causes the 
stoppage of the loom when a filling thread breaks or fails. 

Wilton. — See Body Brussels Carpet. 

Woof, Weft, Filling. — See Filling. 

Wool Dutch Carpet. — These old-fashioned and practically ob- 
solete floor coverings were made with a heavy warp and a 
thick single filling. The warp was woven in so as to form 
the stripes, making what is called a Dutch plaid pattern. 
The Jacquard employed was of a very simple kind, having 
but one card and resembling that which is used for weav- 
ing plain Ingrain filling. 



For fuller information on the subject of floor coverings 
the reader should consult a book called "The History and 
Manufacture of Floor Coverings," in which the manufacture 
of all kinds of carpets, rugs, mattings, linoleums, floor oil 
cloths, etc., is described in detail, with numerous illustrations. 
The book is published by the Review Publishing Company, 31 
East Seventeenth street, Xew York. Price, $1.00. 



Page Seventy-four 



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Page S'jvi m\ live 



TABLE SHOWING HOW ANY LENGTH CARPET PATTERN CAN BE CUT 

TO BEST ADVANTAGE. 



13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
IS 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
2S 
29 
30 

81 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 



in. Pat. cuts at 



ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in 


ft in ft in 


t 7.7 


8.8 


9.9 


10. 10 


11.11 


13.0 


14.1 


15.2 


16. 


3 17.4 


S.2 


9.4 


10.6 


11. S 


12. IC 


14.0 


15.2 


16.4 


17. 


5 18.8 


10.0 


11.3 


12.6 


13.9 


15.0 


16.3 


17.6 


18.9 


20. 


3 


9.4 


10.8 


12.0 


13.4 


14.8 


16.0 


17.4 


18.8 






9.11 


11.4 


12.9 


14.2 


15.7 


17.0 


18.5 


19. IC 






9.0 


10.6 


12.0 


13.6 


15.0 


16.6 


18.0 


19.6 






9.6 


11.1 


12.8 


14.3 


15.10 


17.5 


19.0 


•^0.7 






10.0 


11.8 


13.4 


15.0 


16.8 


18.4 


20. (? 








10.6 


12.3 


14.0 


15.9 


17.6 


19. S 


:il.O 








11.0 


12.10 


14.8 


16.6 


18.4 


•40.2 


22.0 








11.6 


13.5 


15.4 


17.3 


19.2 


21.1 


23.0 








10.0 


12.0 


14.0 


16.0 


18.0 


20.0 


22.0 


24.0 






10.5 


12.6 


14.7 


16.8 


18.9 


20.10 


22.11 


25.0 






10.10 


13.0 


15.2 


17.4 


19.6 


21.08 


23.10 


26.0 






11.3 


13.6 


15.7 


18.0 


20.3 


22.6 


24.9 


27.0 






11.8 


14.0 


16.4 


18.8 


2].0 


23.4 


25.8 


28.0 






12.1 


14.6 


16.11 


19.4 


21.9 


24.2 


26.7 


29.0 






10.0 


12.6 


15.0 


17.6 


20.0 


22.6 


25.0 


27.6 


30 !c 




10.4 


12.11 


15.6 


18.1 


20.8 


23.3 


25.10 


28.5 


31. C 




10.8 


13.4 


16.0 


18.8 


21.4 


24.0 


26.8 


29.4 


32.0 




11.0 


13.9 


16.6 


19.3 


22.0 


24.9 


27.6 


30.3 


33.0 




11.4 


14.7 


17.0 


19.10 


22.8 


25.6 


28.4 


31.2 


34.0 




11.8 


14.7 


17.6 


20.5 


23.4 


26.3 


29.2 


32.1 


35.0 




9.0 


12.0 


15.0 


18.0 


21.0 


24.0 


27.0 


30.0 


33.0 


36!6 


9.3 


12.4 


15.5 


18.6 


21.7 


24.8 


27.9 


30.10 


33.11 37.0 


9.6 


12.8 


15.10 


19.0 


22.2 


25.4 


28.6 


31.8 


34.10 38. G- 


9.9 


13.0 


16.3 


19.6 


22.9 


26.0 


29.3 


32.6 


35.9 


39.0 


10.0 


13.4 


16.8 


20.0 


23.4 


26.8 


30.0 


33.4 


36.8 


40.0 


10.3 


13.8 


17.1 


20.6 


23.11 


27.4 


30.9 


34.2 


37.7 


40.0 


10.6 


14.0 


17.6 


21.0 


24.6 


28.0 


31.6 


35.0 


38.6 


42.0 


10.9 


14.4 


17.11 


21.6 


25.1 


28.8 


32.3 


35 . 10 


39.5 


43.0 


11.0 


14.8 


18.4 


22.0 


25.8 


29.4 


33.0 


36.8 


40.4 


44.0 


11.3 


15.0 


18.9 


22.6 


26.3 


30.0 


33.9 


37.6 


41.3 


45.0 



In_ making your calculations do not figure too closely, as some carpets stretch 
or shrink a little, or a new piece of the same pattern may occasionally be made 
half an inch smaller or larger by the manufacturei-. 

ROOMS OF THE SIZES INDICATED BELOW WILL TAKE THE QUAN- 
TITY OF 3-4 CARPETING SPECIFIED, NO ALLOWANCE 
BEING MADE FOR WASTE IN MATCHING. 



Page Sc 



Size 






Size 






Room. B 


readths. 


Yds. 


Room. 


Breadths. 


Yds. 


9x9 


4 


12 


14x19 


6.2 


41% 


9 xlO.6 


4 


14 


14x20 


6.2 


431/3 


9 xl2 


4 


16 


14x21 


. 6.2 


451/2 


9 xl3.6 


4 


18 


15x14 


7 • 


32% 


"9 xl5 


4 


20 


15x15 


7 


35 


9 X16.6 


4 


22 


15x16 


7 


371/3 


9 xl8 


4 


24 


15x17 


7 


392/3 


10 X 9 


4.2 


13.2 


15x18 




42 


10 xlO.6 


4.2 


15.2 


15x19 


tr 
/ 


44% 


10 xl2 


4.2 


18 


15x20 


7 


462/3 


10 X13.6 


4.2 


201^ 


15x21 


7 


49 


10 xl5 


4.2 


22.2 


15x22 


7 


511/3 


10 X16.6 


4.2 


24.3 


15x23 




552/3 


10.6x10.6 


5 


17.2 


15x24 


7 


56 


10.6x12 


5 


20 


16x15 


7.2 


37.2 


10.6x13.6 


5 


22.2 


16x16 


7.2 


402/3 


10.6x15 


5 


25 


16x17 


7.2 


42.2 


10.6x16.6 


5 


27.2 


16x18 


7.2 


45 


10.6x18 


5 


30 


18x19 


7.2 


47.2 


12 xl2 


5.2 


22 


16x20 


7.2 


50 


12 X13.6 


5.2 


24.3 


16x21 


7.2 


52.2 


12 xl5 


5.2 


27.2 


16x22 


7.2 


55 


12 X16.6 


5.2 


3014 


16x23 


7.2 


57.2 


12 xl8 


5.2 


33 


16x24 


■7.2 


60 


12 X19.6 


5.2 


35.3 


17x15 


8 


40 


13.6x13.6 


6 


27 


17x16 


8 


421/3 


13.6x15 


6 


30 


17x17 


8 


451/3 


13.6x16.0 


6 


33 


17x18 


8 


48 


13.6x18 


6 


36 


17x19 


8 


502/3 


13.6x19.6 


6 


39 


17x20 


8 


531/3 


13.6x21 


6 


42 


17x21 


8 


56 


14 xl4 


6.2 


301/3 


17x22 


8 


582/3 


14 xl5 


6.2 


32.2 


17x33 . 


8 


011/3 


14 xl6 


6.2 


342/3 


17x24 


S 


64 


14 xl7 


6.2 


37 


18x15 . 


S 


40 


14 xl8 


6.2 


.^9 I- 


18x16 . 


s 


42% 


i;tv six 




^ 









Size 






Room. 


Breadths. 


Yds. 


18x17 


8 


45% 


18x18 


8 


48 


18x19 


8 


502/3 


18x20 


8 


53% 


18x21 


8 


56 


18x22 


8 


582/3 


18x23 


8 


61% 


18x24 


8 


64 


19x15 


8.2 


42.2 


19x16 


8.2 


45% 


19x17 


8.2 


481/4 


19x18 


8.2 


51 


19x19 


8.2 


53 5-6 


19x20 


8.2 


56% 


19x21 


8.2 


591/2 


19x22 


8.2 


621-5 


19x23 


8.2 


65% 


19x24 


8.2 


6S 


20x15 


9 


45 


20x16 


9 


48 


20x17 


9 


51 


20x18 


9 


54 


20x19 


9 


57 


20x20 


9 


60 


20x21 


9 


63 


20x22 


9 


66 


20x23 


9 


69 


20x24 


9 


72 


21x15 


9.2 


47.2 


21x16 


9.2 


502/3 


21x17 


9.2 


53 5-6 


21x18 


9.2 


57 


21x19 


9.2 


60.1 


21x20 


9.2 


63% 


21x21 


9.2 


66.2 






INDEX. 



Aga 



INST, 



Art Loom Rugs, . 

Art Squares, 

AuBUSsoN Carpets, 

xAx minster Carpets, 

Batten, 

Beam, 

Bobbin, 

Body Brussels, 

Brussels Stouts, . 

Carpet Measuring, Cutting and Laying, 

Carpet Moths and Beetles, Protection 

Cement for Linoleum, 

Chain, ..... 

Chamber, Front, Measuring, 

Guest, 
China Matting, . 
Church, Measuring, 
Cloth Beam, 

Cocoa Mattings and Mats, . 
Color, Complementary, 
'■ Primary, 

Secondary, 

Tertiary, . 
Co:\[b. ..... 

Cop, ..... 

Cop Tube, .... 

Cork Carpet, 
Cotton Chain, 

Dictionary of Carpets, Other 
Terms, .... 

Diagrams for Carpet Measuring, 
Drop Box, . . . . 

Drop and Set Patterns, 

Extra Super, 

Fiber Carpet, 

Filling, .... 

First Floor of a Suburban House, Measuring, 

First Floor of American Basement House, AIeasuring, 

Floor Oil Cloth, ........ 



Floor Coverings, a 



ND 



52, 



Tr.xoe 



1'A(;e. 
()i 
6\ 
61 

61, 6 J 
62 
62 
62 

62, 63 

63 

3,42 

53. 54 

68 

63 
16, 17 

12. 13 
70 

26, 27 
63 

63, 64 
64 
64 
64 
64 
64 
64 
64 
64 
66 

61,74 

• 3-43 

• 64 
(14. 65 

■ 65 
. 65 

6S 
36, 37 
20. 21 

65 



Page Seventy seven 



Index — Continued. 

Granite Carpet, . 

Halls of Unusual Shape, Measuring, . . . 14, 

Hand-tufted Rugs, 

Harness, 

" Frame, 

" Shaft, . 

Heald or Heddle, . 
Heck^ 

Hemp Carpet, 
Ingrain Carpet, . 
Jacquard, 
Japan Matting, . 
Jute Ingrain, 
Kidderminster, 
Kilmarnock, 
Lay, . 

Laying Carpets, . 
Lignitect, 
Linoleum, 

Linoleum, How to Lay and Care for It, 
Loom, 

Measuring for Carpets 
MoQUETTE Carpet, . 
Napier Matting, . 
Oriental Rugs, 
Oval Room, Measuring, 
Parlors, Front and Back, Measuring, 

'' Main Hall and Extension, Measuring 
Pattern Card, 

" Chain, . 
Pick, 

Picker Staff, 
Pro-Brussels Carpets, 
Rag Carpet, 
Reed, 

Rug, Making from Pieces of Carpet and Border, 
Saloon, Parlor, Measuring, 
Savonnerie, . 
Scotch xA.rt Rugs, 
Second Floor of American Basement House, Measuring, 
Second Floor of Seashore House, Measuring, 
Set Pattern, ...... 

Shade, ........ 

Shuttle, ....... 

Box, 



47, 48, 49. 



page. 
. . 65 
15, 16, 24, 25 
65,66 
66 
66 
66 
66 
66 
66 
66.67 
•67 
70 
66 
67 
67 
67 
3,42 

67 
68 

50. 51 

68 

3,42 

68 

68 

69 

38,39 

30, 31 

10, II 

69 
69 

69 
69 
69 
70 
70 
59,60 

3,9 
70 
70 
22,23 
32. 33 
70 
70 
70 
70 



Page Seventj'-eight 






Index — Continued. 

Shuttle, Race, ......... 

Skix Rugs axd ^Iats, ........ 

Smyrna Rugs and Carpets, ...... 

Sprouting of Carpets, . . . . . . . . 

Stains for Floors, ........ 

Stairs, Winding, Measuring, ...... 

Steamship, Saloon, ^Measuring, ...... 

Straw ]\Iatting, ......... 

Table Showing Quantities of Body and Border Required 

Carpets of Grtin Size, ....... 

Table Showing How Carpet Patterns Can Be Cut to 

vantage, ......... 

Table Showing the Quantity of 3-4 Carpeting Required 

Rooms of Various Sizes, ...... 

Tapestry Brussels Carpets, ...... 

Temple, .......... 

Theatre, ]^Ieasuring, ........ 

Three- Ply Carpet, ........ 

Tint, ........... 

Treating Floors for Rugs and Carpets, .... 

Union Carpet, . . ■ . 

Uses for Odds and Ends of Carpeting, Matting, Etc., 

Velvet Carpet, ......... 

Venetian Carpet, ........ 

Warp, . 

" Beam, 
Web, . 
Weft, 

" Fork, 
Wilton Carpet, 

Window Shades, How to ITang, 
Woof, ..... 

\\''ooL Dutch Carpet, . 



page. 

71 

71 

71 

55,56 

46 

34,35 
18,19 

71,72 



for 



Ad- 



FOR 



43, 



/o 
7(i 

7(^ 
72,72> 

7?> 
28,29 

73 

72> 
44,45 
67 
57, 58 
72> 
73 
74 
74 
74 
74 
74 
64 
56 
74 
74 



■A-.., 



Page Seventy-nine 



The 

Carpet and Upholstery 
Trade Review 

ESTABLISHED 1870 

TJie Leading and Oldest Publication in the Trade, 

Devoted to Carpets, Rugs (Domestic and Oriental), Linoleum Floor 
Oilcloth, Matting and other Floor Coverings, Upholstery Goods, Draperies, 
Lace Curtains, Decorative Schemes, &c. 

Published the 1st and l?th of Every Month. 

SUBSCRIPTION, $3.00 PER ANNUM. 



The 

Furniture Trade Review 

and 

Interior Decorator 

Established 1880 

The Standard Journal of the Trade and the Best 
Medium for Advertising. 

Issued on thelOth of Every Month. 

SUBSCRIPTION, Sl.OO PER ANNUM. 



Publishers : 

REVIEW PUBLISHING CO. 
31 East 17th Street - New York 



Page Eighty 



Index to Advertisements. 



Americax Fibre ]\Iattixg Compaxv, 
Arnold, Coxstable & Co., 

BOLLEXTIX & ThO.MPSOX, 

Cook's Lixoleum, .... 

Del'tsch, Rudolph, 

Ellis axd Spartax Rug Fastexers. 

Ferdixaxd, L. W.. & Co., 

Haag. F. & G.. & Co., . 

Hartford Carpet Co:mpany, . 

Hockridge, William G.. & Co.. 

Hodges Fiber Carpet Co:mpaxy, 

HoRSTMAXx. William H., & Co., . 

JUDSOX, P. O.. & Co., 

KxAPP Rubber Bixdixg Company, . 

LiXEX Thread Company, 

Paixesville Metallic P)Ixdix(; Compasy, 

Persl\x Rug ^Taxltactory, 

Scott & West Co^[PANY, 

Shoaff. J. R., & Co.. . 

Silver Lake Comp.\.\v, . 

SixGER Carpet Machines. 

Wild, Joseph, & Co., 

WiTCOMBE. McGe.XCHIX c'V' Co 



page. 
. 83 
. 92 

• 95 
Third of Cover 

94 
97 
95 
97 
82 

94 
87 
92 

91 
90 
98 
96 

93 
&j 
8.S 

93 
Second of Cover 

84. 83 



I'.-iKf I-.igluy-one 



nartiord Fabrics 



CARPETS AND RUGS 



MANUFACTURED AT THE 



HARTFORD MILLS 



THOMPSONVILLE, CONN. 

HAVE AN ENVIABLE REPUTATION AMONG 
THE TRADE THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES 



C For over seventy years hands and brains have 
been manufacturing carpets among the most 
favorable environments — that of a New England 
village. Many ideas that are exclusively "Hart- 
ford" are embodied in the machinery, while the 
newest ideas of the worlds inventors have always 
found a ready market at the "Hartford" mills. 

C. The best designers and color experts to be 
obtained work on Hartford fabrics, while the 
choicest of wools are used in their construction. 

C It is thus this constant care and honest effort 
to be the peer of American manufacturers 
has been rewarded. The Hartford Carpet 
Company stands without an equal today. 



The Hartford Carpet Go. 

Salesrooms: .41 Unioji Square New York City 



Page Eighty-two 



THE MOST ATTRACTIVE, durable and economical floor 
coverings ever made are our WOOL AND ROPE-STOCK 

rugs* These rugs are reversible, odorless and can be ob- 
tained in all the staple si^es and a variety of patterns and colorings. 



IWISTWEVE 



A beautiful rug of extra heavy weight, handsomer than any carpet, 
except the most expensive. Two-toned effects in several beautiful designs 
and the following color combinations : 



Light Green with Tan 

Delft Blue with White 

Dark Blue with White 

Medium Green with Dark Green 



Indian Red with Cream 
Indian Red with Tan 
Tan with Brown 
Light Tan with Light Bhie 
■ iJL 1 



'RENTON 



REMONT 



An excellent rug, with good, rich 
coloring, suitable for use all the 
year round. This quality is less 
expensive than Twistweve and 
will give excellent satisfaction for 
general wear. 



A rug of sterling merit at a very 
reasonable price. The Tremont 
quality costs no more than an or- 
dinary straw matting. Looks 
much better and lasts twice as 
long. 



ROPE-STOCK RUGS 

These rugs, while less expensive than the wool and rope-stock, are 
very attractive in appearance and give good satisfaction in wearing quali- 
ties. Made in two grades : 



ORRINGTON 



•IVERTON 



The best quality of all rope-stock. 
Looks better and wears better than 
straw or grass matting rugs, and 
is al)Solutelv odorless. 



An all-rope stock rug of very 
moderate cost, but good in color 
and design. The best looking 
floor covering ever offered at the 
price. 

WOOL AND ROPE-STOCK CARPETS 

by the yard. Similar in .construction and material to the wool and rope- 
stock rugs. 

ROPE-STOCK MATTINGS 

in two qualities, Foxboro and Falmouth, c<)rrcsi)onding to the rope-stock 
rugs. 

If you cannot lind these goods, we will send informalion and refer 
you to the nearest dealer. 

AMERICAN FIBRE MATTING CO. 

HJ-H7 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK MILLS: Lawrence, Mass 



I'acjc I-.iRlity-thrce 



SUPERIOR ^ ATTRACTIVE ^ EXCEPTIONAL 
QUALITY "^ PATTERNS "^ DURABILITY 

Wilds Linoleums 

The original AMERICAN LINOLEUMS 



INLAiDS 

8-4 and also 16-4. 

INLAID BORDERS 

9, 12, 18 in. widths to match wood effects. 

PRINTED 

Three grades, 8-4 and 16-4 widths. 

PLAIN 

All grades, three colors. 

PASSAGE CLOTH 

5-8, 3-4, 4-4 widths. 

CORK CARPETS 

Best grades, five colors. 

GRAINED PLANK 

Showing the true wood grain. 

BATTLESHIP 

Standard adopted by the U. S. Government. 



JOSEPH^ILD 6 Q). 

SOLE SELLING AGENTS 

366-370 Fifth Ave. 
NEW YORK 

25 Summer St., BOSTON J 242 Sdams St., CHICAGO 



Page Eighty-four 



JOSEPH^ILD & Q). 



MAXUFACTVKEKS OF 



SMYRNA RIGS AND CARPETS 

Three Grades — Astoria, Alhambra, Columbia. 

Superior Quality — ALPHA — Solid Color — Three Tones. 

Plain Mottled— AMOOR— Four Colors. 



ARABIAN AND ALAMO CARPETS 

(WOOL .PART WOOL) 

An Inexpensive Pro-Brussels Weave Made in All Carpet Sizes. 



COCOA 31 ATS AND MATTINGS 

Plain, Fancy Striped and Bordered Mattings. Cocoa Mats of All Kinds and 
Sizes. Wool Lettered and Automobile Cut-Out Mats to Order. 



SHEEP AND GOAT SKIN RUGS 

Mounted and Unmounted Animal Skins. Baby Carriage Robes. Fur Robes 

jand Coats. 



FELTINGS OF ALL KINDS 



IMPORTERS OF 



CHINA AND JAPAN MATTINGS 



JAPANESE WALL PAPERS 

Burlaps. Grass Cloths. Embossed Leathers. 



ORIENTAL RUGS AND CARPKTS 



INSERTED FIBRE ( OCOA MATS 
CALCUTTA COCOA MATTLNCiS 



SKLLISO AiilATS I'OR 



CELEBRATED "WILJ)'S " I.INOLEl MS 



CARSON'S WILTON RIGS 



NEW YOKK CHH A<iO HOSTON 

366-370 Filth Ave. ii4iJ Adams St. 28 Siiiiiinei' SI. 



I'.iK' l.ivl»l\ livt 



Mitcombe, flftc(5eacbin 

Si Company 

874 Broa&was iKlew l^ork 



Special IRugs 

/iDabe to ang Design, Color anb Sbape 

H)oneoal anb Hustcian 1banb*tuft 
IReal Scotch Hi minster 

Samples, Designs an& Estintates on application 



British Htt Carpets 

"Calebon" "(3arlanb" "Malc^on" 

"flDa^flower" 

^bese are tbe latest pro&uctions ot HIei. fIDorton d Co., 
an5 tar surpass in merit all tbeir previous etforts 



Staines ITnlaib ^Linoleum 

XTbe most extensive anb varied line in tbe worl^ 

Ube /Ibosaic anb /iDarble Btfects are particularly interesting 

H larae stocl^ carrieD In ^c\v ^ov\{ ant) Cbicago 
at the smiZ prices 



Page Eighty-six 



R O. JUDSON & CO, 

U4-U6 Fifth Avenue New York, N. Y. 



Rixdorfer Parkett Floor Covering 

(The only "True to Nature" Parquetry Inlaids.) 

PLAIN and PRINTED LINOLEUMS 

KILMARNOCK SCOTCH ART RUGS 

ASCOT MOHAIR PLUSH RUGS 

NOVELTY COTTON RUGS 

HAND-TUFTED RUGS 

LINOLEUM WAX and CEMENT 



Kilmarnock Textile Mfg. Co,, Philadelphia, Pa. 

KILMARNOCK RUQS sell all the year round at an Oriental Profit 



mwM 




I ■■! IBI IBtilBI IBI IB 



The KILMARNOCK is 
the only real Scotch weave 
tug made in America. 
Both in quality and weight 
it surpasses the Scotch 
rugs themselves. New 
and distinctive designs 
and color combina- 
tions every season. 






■ I 



■ I lai iBiliBi 



P. O. JUDSON & CO., Sole Selling Agents 
JI4-U6 Fifth Avenu.'.. New York, N. Y. 



I'age NiiuMy-one 



J^ 



Arnold, Constable & Co> 

Wholesale and Cut Order 
Carpet Department 

Lowell Wiltons Lowell Brussels 

Middlesex Wiltons Acco Brussels 

Comanche Wiltons Astoria Axminsters 

Bigelow Axminsters Smith 6000 Velvets 

Every pattern strictly private and original, com- 
prising designs and colorings adapted to 
the most exacting taste. 

Plain Fillings in every pile fabric, 150 shades. 

Broadway and 19th Street, New York 



Order from Stock Don't Disappoint Customers Avoid Delay 

YOU BUY VELOURS FROM STOCK- 

WHY NOT TRIMMINGS? 

Send us Clipping of Goods, State Quantity Wanted, and 

our Reply will Quickly follow with Sample and Price. 

We constantly have on hand : 

Silk Openwork Borders ^^^A "^ Metallic Galooos 

Mercerized Cut Edgings Ji^t^ftf-'- Cretonne Edgings 

Furniture Cord "^^^^^ ^*k- Cretonne Borders 

Furniture Gimps <^l!^^^P^"^^^* ^^^P Cover Binding 

Ball Fringe ^^^^t^il '^^^^^ ^^^^ Bullion Fringe for Velours 

Rug Fringe ^"^^^'^^^S^''^^^ Silk Corded Binding for Curtains 

Silk Tassel Fringes for Armure and Drapery Silks 

Antique 2}4 inch wide Openv^ork Borders 

Cut Silk Edgings for Armure and Damasks 

Cut and Uncut Edgings for Shikii and Plain Silks 

Cotton Tassel Fringes for Scrims and Printed Cotton Goods 

Carpet Binding in all Colors 

WM. H. HORSTMANN COMPANY 

Factory and Main Office: New York Salesroom: 

Fifth and Cherry Streets, Broadway and Grand Street. 

PHILADELPHIA. 



Page Ninety-two 



"^ -mr- 



Rugs Made To Order 

Chenille Axminster 
Austrian Hand Tuft French Savonnerie 

Dutch Hand Tuft French Aubusson 

Specialists in these lines since 1884 

Rugs made seamless, of any size or shape, no matter how 

peculiar. 

Rugs made entirely plain or in any design — yours or ours. 

Rugs made any colors — the dyes being absolutely fast. 



PERSIAN RUG MFY., brKv, New York 



OVER FORTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE (ABOUT TWICE AS LONG AS 
ANY OTHER MANUFACTURER'S) HAS TAUGHT THE 

SILVER LAKE CO. 

HOW TO MAKE THE BEST POSSIBLE 



Solid Braided 



( UPHOI 
\ SHADI 
AWNI" 
J CURT 
V ETC., 



LSTERERS' CORD 
E CORD 
AWNING LINES 
RTAIN CORD 
ETC. 



And for carpet sewing machines our 12 A (with the name on the cord 
as our guarantee) giVes unequaled service. 




D. P. WINNE CO. 

121 Worth Street 
NEW YORK 



Write for Samples 

\ HENRY W. WELLINGTON CO. 

AGENTS , . - 7 5 C';.uincy Street 

BOSTON 



I'age XinctN three 



f WM. G. HOCKRIDGE & CO. { 

1^ FOR ^ 

f SCHOFIELD, MASON & CO.'S h 

V Wilton and Brussels Rugs t 

J^ AND I 

^ Saratoga Bath Rugs a? 

^ AND THE \ 

1 ARTLOOM RUG MILLS' \ 

I Alexandria, Roubaix and Almeda Rugs ^ 

^ h 

f 7 and 9 East 20th Street New York I 



PQD^U DIIQS Austrian, Algerian, Mourczouk, Mongolian 

Superior Values in Styles as well as in Quality. 
(COCOA) ALL SIZES. 

M A T T I N G S Patented Monopole Cocoa Mattings 

We show the handsomest effects in Designs and Colors 
(COCOA) ever offered. 

BATB MATS AND RUOS CARPET BACK BRUSH MATS 

Imported, two qualities. Guaranteed Plain and Bordered. 

washable. Special Sizes for Autos and Vestibules. 

ENQLISB MOHAIR RUOS ' f RENCD VELOUR PORTIERES 

Standard and novelties, DoubleFace. Handmade. All colors. Allstyles 

CROWN BRAND LINOLEUMS '"'"'''• ''''"ri%n.':rd''i^i°er''°""""' 

Exclusive styles. Four grades. Manufactured by the 

ERSTE OESTERREICHISCHE LINOLEUM FABRIK 

The factories are the largest and best equipped works in Austria 

RUDOLPH DEUTSCH 

SOLE SELLING AGENT 

66 to 72 Leonard Street, = NEW YORK 



Page Xinetj'-four 




BOLLENTIN I THOMPSON 



Sole Selling Agents for 

Ginzkey's Hand=Tufted Rugs 

Made to order in any special size, design or coloring. 

AUBUSSON, CHENILLE AXMINSTER 

and 

INDIAN RUGS AND PLAIN WIDE CARPETS 

carried in stock. 



34 Union Square Cast, 



New York 



20™ CENTURY 
LINOLEUM GLUE-CEMENT 



For Cementing 
All Kinds of 
Floor Coverings 
To All Kinds of 
Floors 

Used and recommended by 
the leading houses of tlie 
trade, and adopted by the 
U. S. Government. 




Best for 7 he 

Folloiving 

Reasons: 

li i? al).-.)lutcly ready for 
use, requiring no heatinp or 
thinning. Heing in lifiuid 
form it will cover mure sur- 
face than other cements. It 
dries in 48 hours. It sticks. 
It is very tenacious and 
tough. It is waterproof. It 
is not subject to deconiposi- 
tinn. 



SEND FOP FREE BOOKLET WITH FULL 
DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING LINOLEUM 



L. W. FERDINAND & COMPANY 

201 SOUTH STREET, BOSTON. MASS. 



Page Ninety-five 



iflk 



Oriental Rugs and Carpets 

The latest and best handbook for Rug Buyers and Salesmen. 
Full descriptions and illustrations of every kind of Oriental 
rugs and carpets. 130 illustrations. Price, ^1.50 postpaid. 

The Upholstery and Drapery Guide 

A complete handbook for Upholstery Salesmen and practical 
Upholsterers. Descriptions and illustrations of the Period 
Styles. Schemes for draperies and furnishings, etc. 
Over 500 illustrations. Price, ^2.00 postpaid. 

History and Manufacture of Floor 

Coverings 

Describes the manufacture of every fabric used as a covering 
for floors. 46 illustrations. Price, ^1.00 postpaid. 

The Carpet Workroom 

A guide for Measuring, Cutting and Laying. A dictionary descrip- 
tive of all Floor Coverings and other useful information for 
salesmen and carpet upholsterers. 22 diagrams and illus- 
trations. Price, Sl'OO postpaid. 

Fundamental Principles of Decoration 

Price, lOc. 
-= — F*ul3li-sheci t>y 



REVIEW PUBLISHING CO. 

31 East 17th Street, New York 



VS/RITB WRITE WRITE 

For our up-to-date Sample Board of BRASS NOSINGS, 
PLATES and all ctyles of BINDING for Linoleum, 
Cork Carpet, Matting, etc. Sent by express, prepaid. 

PAINESVILLE METALLIC BINDING CO. 

Established 1885 RA^IINESVIUUH, OHIO Incorporated 1904 

Page Ninety-six 



95 



The "ELLIS" and "SPARTAN 

RUG FASTENERS 



The Ellis No. 2 

Made oval to prevent wearing of rug 
when trod upon. 

Price per Cross, $5.00 net. 

The "Spartan" 

Easy for the workman. Simple and 
inexpensive. 

Price per Cross, $3.25 net. 




^-^^iiid^' 



The " Spartan. 



MANUFACTURED BY 

KINGSTON & ELLIS COMPANY 
Roxbury, Mass. 



HAAG OIL CLOTH KNIVES r,.^.±"f.^l^S?. 



170 CENTRE ST.. NEW YORri 




Price 

$4.00 

Per Dozen 



Hand 
Forged 

Highly 
I'empered 



Each Blade 
riveted to 
handle and 
will not pull 
out. 



No. 3 No. 4 No. 5 No •> 

Our No. 4 Oil Cloth Knife with Short Blade Cuts Heavy Linolvnm without effort or strnin 



Page Ninety-seven 



'^' 



Carpet 



Threads 

for 

Hand and Machine 



BARBOUR'S 



KNOX'S 



MARSHALL'S 



THE LINEN THREAD CO. 

96 FRANKLIN STREET 
NEW YORK 



BOSTON CHICAGO ST. LOUIS 

575-577 Atlantic Ave. 154-156-158 Michigan St. 414 No. 11th Street 

ROCHESTER CINCINNATI SAN FRANCISCO 

115 Mill St. 118 East 6th Street 443 Mission Street 

BALTIMORE PHILADELPHIA 

Lombard and Calvert Stieets 410 Arch Street 



Page Ninety-eight 











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